Commitment

Overview

This is one of many high quality lines located on the lower tier cliff of the Five Open Books area. The route was put up by Jim Bridwell et al. The climbing is nice and very much reminiscent of the next door Munginella, following another huge, right-facing dihedral with some jamming, a bit of liebacking, and a face move or two. Though both the Supertopo's and Reid's (latest edition) guidebooks rate it 5.9, the climbing is not sustained and the crux section is short and seemed soft for the grade.

Getting There

Follow approach directions for Munginella. Once at the base of cliff, scramble up 20 feet (class 3) to the bushy ledge. Traverse ledge right ~100 yards past start of Munginella looking for an obvious splitter crack in a low angle slab (just right of a righ-facing dihedral).

Route Description

Pitch 1: 5.8, 110 feet. Move 10 feet up the thin hand crack to lower angle slab where the crack continues. Follow crack, exit right to bolted belay stance.

Pitch 2: 5.7, 140 feet. Move up the easy face toward the roof. Bypass it on right and continue moving up easy dihedral above. Climb past the tree with slings and move right onto a stance below the larger roof (gear).

Pitch 3: 5.9, 120 feet. Move up the face toward the roof (again), traverse right under the roof and pull into the dihedral (crux). Follow it to a short squeeze-chimney like exit onto the rim. Watch for loose rocks.

Descent: Follow descent directions for Munginella (class 3) or climb Salaginella and hike down via Yosemite Falls Trail (class 1).

Essential Gear

Set of nuts. Two sets of cams from green Alien to #3 Camalot. Single in micro cam(s).

External Links

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Images

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