Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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36.03500°N / 115.46639°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.10a (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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5.10a |
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Number of Pitches:
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2 |
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Grade:
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I |
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Overview
Pitch 2This is a great fun (if short) route that climbs up the center of the face underneath the obvious and huge arch on Black Velvet Wall. The improbable-looking pitch 2 climbs out the side of the roof to a hanging belay on a very scenic arete.
Overview Shot
Route OverviewGetting There
Pitch 1Follow the approach directions given for Refried Brains page. Once atop the 4th class bench at base of Black Velvet Wall, Overhanging Hangover starts near the right edge of the wall (just left of the start of Sour Mash and well right of POD/Dream Of Wild Turkeys start) underneath the huge, 200-foot tall arch. Look for bolts starting about 20 feet above class 3 ramps. Note that there is another (5.10d) bolted line just right of this one.
Route Description
Pitch 1
Pitch 2Pitch 1: 5.10a, 120 feet. Scramble up 3rd class ledges/ramps to directly underneath a steeper headwall. Belay here. A bolt is visible about 15-20 feet above. Once the first bolt is clipped (one or two small and questionable nut placements before the bolt), the rest of the pitch is tightly bolted. Follow bolts up and slightly right to a bolted belay at a small stance. Note that there's another bolted belay directly right about 20 feet.
Pitch 2: 5.10a, 100 feet. Face traverse right (easy, 1 bolt) to reach a crack in a slight, left-facing dihedral. Crack eats nuts. Follow it up to its end then face climb past two or three bolts to the left side of an obvious, sloping roof traverse. Move right out the roof clipping few more bolts & supplementing with small cams if so desired. Hanging & bolted belay on the arete.
Descent: Rap straight down with two 60 meter ropes. Downclimb 3rd class terrain about 20 feet. You might be able to rap with one 60 meter line by swinging left (climber's left) to the above metnioned belay. Not tested.
Essential Gear
Pitch 2QD's (15 or so?). Light rack including a set of nuts (small to large) and single set of cams from about green Alien to #2 Camalot. Possibly a couple extra finger sized cams. Two 60 meter ropes.
External Links
Pitch 2
Pitch 1Mountainproject page for this route is here.