Via Royal Arches route on a warm December day.
Fun day with Mike A.
Rotten log was interesting. I'm not sure how it lasted as long as it did. Ran into a bear after coming down the North Dome Gully. It stood on it's hind legs to get a better look at us.
First Yosemite route.
Danny Lay and I did it. Got to the top of P15 (where the rap down is) in about 3.5 hours, but we decided to do the traverse and scramble to the top (not worth it).
Very fun climb up an amazing formation in the Valley. The pendulum is a lot of fun. We roped up there and in one other spot only. Heading back again this year to access North Dome.
Climbed Trial By Fire (awesome .8 OW!) and planned on linking up with Super Slide but then came the rain...
So we fled down-Valley
First climb in '75 we were so slow we bivvied on top, second in '05, 4.5 hrs.
Excellent route with good variation and challenges. The rating of 5.7 was sandbagged in a typical Yosemite Valley sort of way.
Swapped leads with Paul-Wall on this grand adventure. Loved the glory pitch of solid hand jams to a thankful tree rest. Epic rappelling... Who does this in under an hour??? Took us 13!
Fun, long route. The upper pitches are better and cleaner than the lower pitches. Lots of traversing which isn't too bad. Up and down in one long day (8am-8pm).
My only "big" wall climb. I led the last pitch in the dark rather than spend the night on the wall. Instead we spent the night on top!
Climbed with Bill... very crowded, but made good time and got down NDG in broad daylight. This route is simply awesome.
Swapped leads with Patrick and descended the NDG. An awesome day with perfect weather!
Rappelled with twin 60m ropes.
great times with Michael aus Deutschland- he snuck a couple king cans up and produced them at top. plans to finish with crown jewel after the arches were changed after our food was grabbed by opportunistic rodents. descent was pretty gnarly.
Super Slide (II 5.9, 5 pitches) -- October 10, 2008 -- Mary and I climbed this route on a cold, windy day in October. Mary wore a down jacket for the entire climb. The second pitch was nice, following a thin crack to a thin smeary face to a perfect splitter. The top three pitches were great with increasingly difficult climbing. The final crack was stellar, but more like thin hands than wide fingers for me.
Peruvian Flake (5.10a, 1 pitch) -- October 12, 2010 -- Mary and I climbed this excellent route while scouting the start to Royal Arches. I don't think it's a 5.10, but the moves were super fun and the pro is bomber.
Royal Arches (III 5.7 A0, 15 pitches) -- October 13, 2010 -- Finally climbed this one on a hot sunny day in October. We did the 5.8 alternate start, which was great. The chimney looked aweful, especially with a backpack. We made excellent progress even with many other parties on the route. We took about 7 hr for the climb and 3 hr for the descent.
An enjoyable and full day with Michael Golden. Trip Report
Ended up bivying at top of North Dome gully - spent the rest of the summer learning to lead faster.
Lead every pitch, we moved fast. We were the first ones up in the morning. No one would have caught up except we made the mistake of taking only one rope. The raps took forever! Some guys with two ropes passed us up near the last rap.
Climbed with Dirk (Diggler). It was a COLD morning, so we didn't start until 10 AM. Took us 10 hours to climb it an get back down. It was the most crowded I've seen it (climbed twice before), which delayed us quite a bit. On one of the rappels the rope got stuck and Dirk climbed to retrieve it. Over all it was a fun climb and Dirk is a great climbing partner.
Climbed Royal Arches w/ Brad Mastros. The climb itself went fine; we encountered like 5 other parties on the route including Kris & Dirk from SP. We had kinda of a late start; got off-route like twice and did a friction run-out variation on pitch 5. We moved slow and so we topped out at ~ 6:00pm.....just before dark. Since we didn't bring a 2nd rope for the rappel descent and we heard horror stories on the treacherous "North Dome gully" descent (known for it share of accidents), we opted to hike up ~ 1500 feet and hopefully find the North Dome trail back down through Yosemite Falls and down to the Valley. A very long, long way out. It was dark & too cold to bivy with the clothes we brought. Dehydration was kicking in and I started to staggered. Luckly, we found a creek to replenish with water. After trashing for nearly 4 hrs in the dark , we finally found the North Dome trail at 10:54pm. We thought we're home-free. Not! We lost the trail by the granite slabs near Yosemite Point. It was now even colder & windy! We searched for what it seemed like an hour. Finally, found it and started down. We're both exhausted (ran out of food and had limited water from the creek). We took several breaks on the way down. At approx 4:30am we staggered onto Brad's car parked at the Ahwahee Hotel parking lot. We collapsed into our tent just before 5:00am (we had been out 19 hours on the go).