S edge (Gervasutti route)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.24730°N / 9.63160°E
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.10b (YDS)
Additional Information Difficulty: TD sup
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 20
Additional Information Grade: IV
Sign the Climber's Log


A fantastic and classic climb, the most frequently climbed in the area together with the Erba route on the SE wall of the same summit
and the Parravicini to the E tower of Cima di Zocca.

Difference in elevation is about 500m (18 - 20 pitches)
Once on the route there were few pegs (8-10) so it can be considered as an example of "classic" free climbing


From Rifugio Allievi follow toward north the wide channel on the left (west) of the Punta Allievi, keeping to the left the spur coming from a minor summit.
When you see on your right a big ledge you must cross to catch it following till the edge, over the lower bulwark.

Route Description

Start climbing slight on the right of the edge
Follow some slabs (a small overhang) to get the cracked dihedral on the right of a tooth rising from the edge. (4° and 5°).
Follow the dihedral, a small overhang can be climbed with a short cross (2m to the right - 2m up, 2m left)
On along the crack till the saddle after the tooth. 6°
Few difficult metres (6°+) then, with easier climb along the edge, till few meters under the big gendarme.
Cross under it (on the left side) to get the saddle in the mid of the route.
Here, on the left, a not difficult channel allows to get down.

From the saddle a short cross toward right allows to get the edge to be followed till a yellow wall.
Climb it (6°), along a short easy channel get and follow a series of small cracks (very exposed) till an overhang.
Don't climb it, cross to the right for about 10m on a grassy ledge, on along a crack, cross to the left to get a chimney that leads to the summit

Essential Gear

2 ropes (better 50m)
10-12 carabiniers

Miscellaneous Info

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