|When, from Rifugio Pedrotti, you start walking toward Rifugio Agostini (Ambiez valley), you enter a wide carsic plan and after few tens of minutes, once passed below the rocky bases of Brenta Bassa, you can see, on the right side, the profile of a very smart grey, yellow and black wall that grows (if you're lucky) straight into the blue: you can't do but wishing to climb it !|
And, after climbing it the first time in a fine sunny day, condicio sine qua non to enjoy a relaxing and amusing climb, each time you pass here you feel the need to touch those solid and warm rocks.
On this wall 3 main routes, different as difficulties but similar as engagement, are really among the best middle difficulty routes of the central range of Dolomiti di Brenta, from right to left they are :
Videsott route - III-IV UIAA
Giordani crack - III-IV-V UIAA
Detassis crack - III-IV-V UIAA
The wall is about 300 m high, in its middle a ledge divides the low part, made of grey and black not vertical rock
, from the higher part, yellow and black, vertical and overhanging
for these routes the best starting point is the Rifugio Pedrotti
you can get it starting from Madonna di Campiglio (1515 m)
- by car or taxi-service to Rifugio Valsinella (1513 m).
- on foot : path 317 - to Rif. Casinei,
- then path 318 to Rif.Brentei - 2 h walk from Vallesinella
- 1 more hour, along the wonderful path of the Bocca di Brenta to reach the Rif.Pedrotti
From Rifugio Pedrotti follow the signs to Rifugio Agostini and, in about 30-40 minutes you arrive at the starting points of the routes following some tracks in the scree.
Route Description - first part
To get the ledge in the middle of the wall you can choose between two different approaches :
|the easiest is the slanted crack that, starting from the right border of the wall allows to pass over the first steep part and then goes on toward left crossing an intermediate ledge. (II-III)|
the finest is to start climbing directly in the center of the wall (about 100m left of the point of the previous one) finding the best route to get the ledge : you here can climb almost everywhere with the same difficulties (III-IV)
I suggest this solution that is much more amusing
From the first ledge climb toward left, ascending a system of dihedrals to get the second big ledge.
Once here up directly to get a cracked dihedral and along it to a small ledge.
Pass over a detached small blade and go on along another cracked dihedral slightly toward right to another small ledge.
Left of a white spotted rock go along a chimney-dihedral to arrive to a good shelf.
Straight on along a very fine wall that leads directly to the summit
From the summit, staying a little to the N side, scramble along the ridge toward the Cima Tosa (W) paying some attention to the debris, to get the saddle between the Cima Margherita and the pillars of the ridge of Cima Tosa.
Once at the saddle you must scramble down (very easy) toward the scree to get the path.
40 m long rope and classic gear for classic middle difficulty routes
good supply of water if the weather is sunny