Long one day summit in North Cascades. Halfway up glacier we went straight up and hit the rock ridge for a change from standard route. Good blocky rock that we placed a couple pieces of pro. Rap off summit. Burgers at Good Food on drive home.
Up the Quein Sabe Glacier, to the 5.0 rock. Nice melow climb.
The cornice on the summit rock line is what I remember the most.
Dayhike to the summit with Db and Chris, a new NPS ranger who'd been assigned the task of exploring the park on that particular work day. It was his first mountain, ever. Meeting him on the hike in, we told him we intended to climb Sahale, and he asked if he could join us. DB and I, having carried up camping supplies in anticipation of a longer day, bedded down afterall after the climb and decided to hike out the next morning.
Amazing views and pictures! I started this hike late with Josh Lewis (as always), and we got to Sahale Glacier to watch the sunset. Heading down was horrible in my crap shoes (don't know why I brought them, but every step was extremely painful in the talus). A large deer leapt out of a blueberry bush a few feet in front of me, startling me. Great hike, but I should have planned better for it. Heading down in complete darkness was no fun at all in painful shoes. We should have camped.
Pretty sweet! Saw a bear on the arm. Fun scrambling to the summit. Used a rope just for the rappel.
Total whiteout, 50 yds visibility or less. Made the climb interesting, but still fun!
Cascade River Road just opened last week, so no more road walk.
We got to Marblemount at 5 on Friday and got the last permit for Sahale Glacier Camp Saturday night (I guess everyone else heard the road was open too), so we took a relaxed two day trip. When we left camp in the morning (about 8am) the snow was just hard enough to slow us down a bit without crampons, but perfect on the way down (11am). Easy scramble to the summit (unroped, mostly 3rd class with just a bit of 4th class).
Lots of wildflowers and wildlife (hummingbirds, marmots, goats peeking around the rock wall by our tents), but the blueberries are not quite ripe yet. And flies, flies, FLIES (fortunately it was windy at night so it was only on the way down...).
Climbed with Lloyd, Maryanne, Roberta and Valerie. Fun scramble. Not too crevassed but there was one gaper that required crossing.
Actually there wasn't room for the strippers. Barely enough room at the summit for the three of us. This climb had the three components of a good climb...A long approach (Especially with the additional 3-miles of asphalt/gravel road in front of the trailhead), a little glacier travel, and a short but sweet summit block rock climb. All that adds up to a "must climb" climb. The friendly marmot was an added bonus!
Hiked into Boston Basin Friday night, climbed Forbidden Saturday and camped in the Basin again, Sunday Climbed Sahale and descended via Sahale Arm. Had perfect weather on Forbidden but Sahale was a Whiteout.
With Steve and Karl, my last real climb before getting married. Strippers and being drunk seem kind of cliche and sad at 40, I'd rather use the opportunity to get one last weekend up in the mountains before wedding stuff starts. Headed up Friday morning being the first to get a permit at the ranger station.
Longer hot approach since the road is washed out back at Eldorado Creek. Seemed odd hiking up a paved road though. Ran into an unafraid deer on the hike up onto the Arm. Then a marmot cased our camp just before dinner. Nice night with bright stars and not much wind. Climb was great, Karl led the snow and I got the rock lead. Mostly a 3rd class scramble but with some exposure. The short 5th class step was nice and blocky with lots of easy holds and then a walk to the actual summit. Our 60 meter rope barely got us down to the snow on the rap (yay for rope stretch). Back to the car just before 6 pm with blisters and sore feet. Bacon cheeseburgers in Marblemount helped the healing. :- ) Fun weekend with good buddies and awesome climbing partners.
Now, on to planning my first climb AFTER being married! (Hope she didn't think I was going to stop.) ;- )
View from camp on the Arm, as well as the summit, were phenomenal. Climb the summit block just right of center (near rappel line). A move or two of low 5th class (protected with one stopper) let to fun scramble to the top. Usually crowded, we had Sahale's summit to ourselves. Popular but fun climb.
Gorgeous views. Great opportunity for an easy trad climb for us beginners.
Awesome climb via standard route from Boston Basin. Managed to give myself nasty puncture wound with my crampon during crevasse rescue drill on the descent. One of my favorite climbs!
Had to spin very close to the top due to total white out conditions. With Pat Tillman of Alpine Ascents.
Soloed up the glacier from Boston Basin. Nice and easy, but with excellent views ! Started from BB around 8am, up top by 11:45, back in camp by 2-ish. Lots of exposed glacier ice and some hard neve. The night before had been cloudy and rainy, but great climbing weather - cool and clear, though a bit breezy.
9 hours RT, Martin Cash must have been hauling ass since we did not even pitch out the scramble. Glacier showed no signs of crevasses, but they were there, sinking in slowly. No one else really up there, saw 2 other parties and one other party via the Quien Sabe
Dan and I arrived at Cascade Pass at 7:00 with the intention of doing the Torment - Forbidden Traverse in 2 days. Unfortunely the weather sucked and we were completely clouded in at the trailhead. We decided that would not be a good route in iffy weather and did Sahale as a dayclimb instead. Hiked up the Sahale Arm, then scrambled the Complete Southwest Ridge to the summit. Pretty fun for an easy route. Nice views from the top as the clouds cooperated for about 2 hours at high elevation. 5,700' elevation gain done in 7.75 hours car to car.
This was the first summit during a 7-day stint in the North Cascades with Mountain Madness (part of their 13-day alpine climbing course). The weather was great and the climb was too.