Toghether with other 6 firends of mine and three mountain guides we attempted the normal Route of Sajama, starting from Pueblo Sajama. We spent one night at Base Camp (4800 m) and one night at Camp 1 (5700 m). No wind, with -14°C! We were lucky! A lot of high penitentes (half meter) between the beginning of the ice part pf the route and the top. Great view of Chile and Bolivia from the top!
The only team on Sajama for the 3 days we were there! Great area. October is too late, or maybeglobal warming takes it toll: zero snow between High camp and the glacier, 500m up -> water problems, a very dangerous, dusty avalanche gully and 100% Penitentes, all the way to the summit. Should be easy hike up in snow conditions, but much harder now.
We didn't even start our summit attempt. Due to strong winds we decided to go down from high camp. Another time, perhaps.
We set off from high camp (5675m) at 0245 and reached the top (6554m) just after sun rise at 0700. It was -3C at high camp with no wind.
We climbed with Ignacio Pacaje from Sajama village who we also climbed Parinacota and Pomerape with and I would highly recommend. You can contact him through the Park office.
The high winds made getting out of the tent the crux for me. Made the summit from high camp in about 4 hours. The technical pitch before the easy snow slopes was more difficult than anything on Illimani due to the ice. The NW ridge route isn´t near as aesthetic as Illimani´s normal route, but still a worthwhile objective and I´m happy to have climbed Bolivia´s highest mountain.
Had a great summer trip up the cold, windy high point of Bolivia. I climbed it with an American friend and Eduardo M. from Bolivia Mountains, whom I highly recommend:
Unlike the other peaks we climbed in Bolivia, Sajama had far more extreme weather conditions.
See the TR here: http://www.summitpost.org/an-expedition-in-the-bolivian-andes/547342
Also climbed with Eduardo, great guides - they also now work independently through http://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/
After summiting Illimani we climbed Sajama, the conditions were not the best but thanks to Eulogio Tarqui (our guide) who did a great job we summited Bolivia`s highest mountain.
Thanks to Bolivian Journeys. www.bolivianjourneys.org (the best mountaineering company in Bolivia...)
We ascended Sajama in May 2006 via Normal route (NE)and descended using skis from summit to app. 5200m. Better option is taking the SW ridge for skiing / better snow also leter in the season. www.skicordillera.expedition.sk
reached 6000 m - heavy snowfall/poor visibility forced us to turn back
beautiful, though cold climb. made it to summit in 4 hours from high camp, despite the penitentes. experienced very high winds at high camp, but the tents withstood it. nice mountain overall. the locals of the village were extremely helpful, informative and organized. nice to see them working together with the climbers.
A friend invited me when I was in peru and so we went to Sajama.
Nice climb. Very long and I believe the hi camp is now higher than 5450m. More like 5750m, pretty cold and windy up there. Lots of rock and scrambing to make it on the glacier, then huge penitinete field most of the way up.
Did it in 6 hours from the high camp to the summit. After a snow gully there was a terrible penitientes field, which was the main problem of the climb. Demotivating are the numbers of false summits one passes.
Climb started at 01:20 from High Camp. Steady medium/strong 30~50kph winds. Summit on 07:30, below-freezing temperatures.
Thanks to Marco Soria from Bolivian Journeys and to guide Eulogio for this great trip!
"We just came back from ¨Tata Sajama¨, we made it to the summit !, weather conditions were terrible, very windy and cold. Thanks to Marco Soria of Bolivian Journeys in La Paz for organizing the ascention, everything was perfect, thanks to our incredible guides Luis Palli, Eulogio Tarqui and Vicente Perez, they did a great job. www.bolivianjourneys.org e-mail:firstname.lastname@example.org"