Amazing (and amazingly well-bolted by American standards) ridge climb. Didn't tag the true summit due to thunderstorms.
A bunch of people on the South Ridge...we were alone on the East Ridge. Pleasant climbing on generally sound rock, good belays in place. Summit needle is awesome!
Attempted the Takala variant (4 additional pitches of 4c/5a), but turned around after 8 pitches as it got too cold, weather seemed uncertain, and we (four friends in two rope teams) started late and were too slow, in hindsight, chatting too much. Weather had been totally out the previous few days, so we were quite disappointed to turn back on a relatively good day; weather held up though and a lot of people finished that day. Hope to come back, it seemed like a nice challenging route.
Gemsplangen, via Huttengrat (12 pitches of 4b/4c) done the previous day in mountain boots in somewhat wet/snow conditions was still a nice climb.
For any of the routes up this mountain, the normal return is via a coluoir; ice-axe and proper boots was very handy for me! (not applicable if you go later in the season)
We climbed the South Ridge in Aug. 2011 - only another party in the route
Climbed the parallel east ridge during the alpine instructor course of the dutch alpine association under perfect weather.
I did return with Robin and Toby several times and we enjoyed some easier routes than the full rideg main event.
One of my favourite places in CH!
South ridge with the alternative start via Takala
We went up to the bivak (jep to climb this long one, but decided not to). So next morning we followed the kettenweg (nice wake-up call wearing sneakers) and went to climb the Niedermann (direkter S-wand) on the Zwillingsturm. Very beautifull climb with different types of rock. We had a two hour break on the top and abseiled down the route.
First alpine rock route for me. Beatifull experience. Nice route, well protected.
We chose to climb it in two days. We wanted to do a bivy along this beautiful ridge as the weather was perfect. One of the most beauriful climb I've ever done.
I've climbed the S ridge two times. It's a very nice, not to easy route. The crux is demanding for a route of that rating.
Ginger an I have done it very early in the year, we have done the second ascent of that year according to the book in the salbit bivy. Wonderful route, awesome rock, less people, we enjoyed it very much.
It's not so easy for everyone Ulli. ; )
The Salbit Bivouac is tricky to find in the dark.
Stefan and I did make it up the First Tower, but considering I had been vomiting en route we decided pressing on the remaining 24 pitches would be unwise. Beware expired budget Camembert cheese!
The next day we did the other route on the first tower, and enjoyed it's more consistent technicalities even more, also savouring the nice rappel route of the main route.
Very nice tour, many people do it on a nice day !
->Start early if you are a fast climber, or you will be
stuck inbetween other parties. The tour starts directly
behind the hut, we started with headlamps.
Unbelievable, but the real Paper Summit Log acutally
has a number of bivouacs halfway on that route !
We were at the top for lunch: 35 pitches in < 7.5 hours ;-)
Climbed two nice long routes on the west ridge the next day.
Ulli Prinz & Guenter Haas