Park 2.45 miles up the canyon from the neon sign at the Park N' Ride. Use one of the pullouts from either side of the road. Drop down to the river from a point where you are directly across from the wall. At the river is a fixed line strung between trees that is crossed via a Tyrolean Traverse. Recently a foot line has been put up too, but it's not as fun
The routes begin at an overhang at the far side of the river crossing. Follow the base of the cliffs right to reach the rest of the climbs.
This area is very popular and is often full on weekends. Nearby trees and the river keep the area cool while the east facing rock catches the morning sun. While the routes are close together, they can all be top roped at the same time. The rock is solid and steep, and the area hosts routes of a variety of difficulties. The climbing here is mostly sport.
During the winter the base of the main wall is used for praticing dry-tool traverses, while the dark chimney to the left of the Italian Arete is used for practicing dry-tooling on top rope (5.5-5.6).
|Route ||Difficulty ||Rating ||FA ||Trad/Sport |
|Salem's Lot ||5.10c || ||1992, Shane Willet & Mike Carnahan ||Sp|
|Witchhunt ||5.10a || ||1992, Shane Willet & Mike Carnahan ||Sp|
|Abracadabra ||5.5 || ||Unknown ||Tr|
|Senseless Banter ||5.9+ || ||1990, Scott Unice & Julie Gustin ||Tr|
|Forgotten Ambition ||5.9 || ||1990, Scott Unice & Julie Gustin ||Tr|
|Italian Arete ||5.6 || ||1992, Tony Calderone ||Sp|
|Entre Nous ||5.8+ || ||1989, Stuart Rickman & Libby Ellis ||Sp|
|Thieving Magpie ||5.7 || ||1992, Paul Hodges & Ray Dahl ||Sp|
|Roll the Bones ||5.6 || ||1991, Ray Dahl & Paul Hodges ||Sp|
|Route overview information used from Stuart & Bret Ruckman's Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range. In depth information is from personal experience|
Italian Arete - 5.6
The Italian Arete is a fun climb on a sharp arete. Big blocky holds characterize this route.
Pitch #1: Climb the corner of a large wall that most of the other sport routes ascend. Start on the inside of a dihedal and climb straight for the arete. About 3/4 up, drop back into the left face of the arete to reach the bolted anchor. This section is usually then top-roped.
Pitch #2: If one so wishes, a second pitch can be climbed from here, with a walkoff for descent. Trad gear is needed for the second pitch.
Entre Nous - 5.8+
This is the first bolted route on the rock slab past the Italian Arete. It has small holds, used mostly for balance while edging. An intimidating 80 ft climb.
Thieving Magpie - 5.7
This is the next climb over from Entre Nous. Clean, crisp rock, and a thin crux near the top.
Roll the Bones - 5.6
The last bolted route on the wall. A good climb on a shield of quartzite.
For the sport routes, 1 set of quickdraws and two slings for anchoring should do. I haven't done the trad here, so I can't give gear reccomendations on that.
If you have additional info for routes described or have done a route not described in depth, please put the info here and I'll integrate it into the page!