Slope: 1000 meters.
Time: 5h 30 min + 4h 30 min (10h)
This is a route of high mountain in spite of the fact of the lower slope from the refuge of Sarradets to the summit of Marboré. The itinerary it's difficult to find in some places and some chimneys of grade II or II- exist.
Very important note: never walk this route with fog, you'll lose your way in a confuse labyrinth without references. Even in sunny days it's not evident and the help of someone what know the area, or the use of gps, it's advisable.
See the main page to approach to Col of Tentes, page of Taillon to approach to Bujaruelo
or page of Refuge de Sarradets
The first section it's the same of normal route of Casco
After the col of the Sarrios we turn getting the route what climb to the peak Casco de Marboré (3006m)
across its south route across a very wide ramp of stones (snow is frequent until june). In the middle of the ramp we reach a bifurcation of paths (difficult to see but some cairns help to us). The left side (west) go to the summit of Casco across some rock climbs of I+ (F sup). We follow the path of right side (east) in direction to a wide terrace under the peak Torre de Marboré called Faja de los Sarrios. The walk goes horizontal to the access to the summit of Torre in SE side (some steps like great stairs of I+ and II- in left side). In this point we follow to the east descending to a little col of 2935m.
Three options from there:
a) In front of us it's the little chimney of II to access to a point of 2955m over the Col de la Cascada (2930m), following a terrace we reach the big plateau of rocks over the Faja Roya.
b) we follow the great terrace of right side and we get the Faja Roya, another wide terrace under walls of rock. In the middle of the Faja after a few of meters of descent we see in left side signaled with some cairns the access to the upper part of Faja Roya (important: the channel of access it's behind of us and you must be carefull to find the point to evitate 2 km of walk)
c) if you don't find the other two exits of the terrace, you descent to the end of Faja Roya in a little col of 2855m and connect with the route of Góriz
In the options a) and b) you reach a confuse area with karst with many of stones, little hills,... the path it's not evident but you can see the peaks Espalda de Marboré and Picos de la Cascada in left side. Walking under this peaks in the little valley we reach a col in the south side of Marboré (col west of Marboré with the pico de la Cascada Oriental) and we connect with the route from Góriz to climb the south ramp of Marboré to the summit.
Map, compass. The GPS it's very usefull in this route if you have.
Early on the season (may-june) is necessary the use of crampons and ice-axe.
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