The route from Col de Tentes is the shortest and easiest to climb the Casco in only one day but the option to spend the night in Sarradets permit to realize the climb from spanish side (Bujaruelo) in two days. The trained mountaineers can to realize the climb from Bujaruelo in only one day in a walk of more than 10 hours.
Slope: 260 meters.
Time: 2h 30 min
-From Col de Tentes:
slope: 800 meters
slope: 1600 meters.
time: 5h 20 min
See the main page to approach to Col of Tentes, page of Taillon to approach to Bujaruelo
or page of Refuge de Sarradets
The first part of the route from Sarradets it's the same for all the mountains because the only stepcrossing is the Brecha de Rolando (evident gap in the wall of rock of south side). Across some hard ramps with permanent snow (hard snow in the morning even in june) we cross the Brecha.
After the pass we turn to left (east) following a path. The path go near of the wall and cross a little terrace with a metallic rope exposed if had snow (Paso de los sarrios). Under the wall of rock of SW side of the peak Casco de Marboré with some aiguilles we reach a little cross of paths. The most evident go to south to descent for a ramp to Gruta (cave) de Casteret but it's not our way (the great rock of Pico Anónimo in front of us is a good reference). We turn to left (east) in a ramp of hard slope bordering the wall of casco to reach a little col, it's the Col of sarrios (2760m)
, the best crossing point to this area.
After the col we turn getting the route what climb to the peak Casco de Marboré (3006m)
across his south route across a very wide ramp of stones (snow frequent to june). In the middle of the ramp we reach a bifurcation of paths (difficult to see but some cairns help to us).
We go to the left side (west) searching some steps in left side in the ridge SW what fall from the summit. Across some rock climbs of I+ (F sup) we reach the wide rounded summit with great view of Cirque de Gavarnie.
Early in the season (may-june) crampons and ice-axe to reach the Brecha de Rolando and even the south ramp of access to the final ridge.
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