Sass de Mesdì 2762 m
The area Odle-Pùez constitutes the North Western end of the Dolomites, bounded to the West by Valle Isarco, to the North by Val Pusteria, to the East by Val Badia and to the South by Val Gardena. It consists of two mountain ranges, including the Pùez and the Odle Group, this latter developing between Val Gardena and Val di Funes. The Odle Group is full of sharp and slender towers of “dolomia”, hence the name "Odle" - needles - and offers a rich choice of climbs of varying difficulty and length. On the Southern side of Odle Group there is a coastline of superb summits dominating the magnificent and scenic meadows of Alpe Cisles; amongst them Sass de Mesdì appears like a beautiful rocky castle , clearly isolated and located between Odla di Cisles on the left and the deep gully of Mesdì on the right. The mountain stretches towards the Val di Cisles (South) with a beautiful wall 350 meters high built of good quality "dolomia", articulated in a succession of corners and chimneys, whose base there is the small monolith called Torre Kasnapoff. On Sass del Mesdì steep South wall run different cool classic routes, which represent an interesting lure for the climber.
The first known ascent to the top was made by the chamois hunter G.B. Vinatzer in the year 1884, August from Forcella di Mesdì.
The starting point is Alpe di Cisles, accessible from Santa Cristina di Val Gardena. Road access to Val Gardena
- From Trento and Bolzano: Take the Brennero motorway, exit Bolzano North, then follow the road leading to the little town of Ponte Gardena. From here take the road entering Val Gardena, pass Ortisei and reach Santa Cristina
- From Brennero : Take the Brennero Motorway towards South, exit Chiusa and here follow the roadway joining the Val Gardena road, pass Ortisei and reach Santa Cristina
Walking access to South Face routes You can approach the peak directly from Col Raiser Cable car upper station m 2107, otherwise - if you want to take it easy - you can spend the night at Rif. Col Raiser, Rif. Fermeda or Rif. Firenze
Approach from Col Raiser Take the path that leads to the starting point of via ferrata Sass Rigais, and follow it uphill, approaching, after a couple of crossroads, the Southern walls of the Odle. Walking to the East you will meet in sequence Piccola Fermeda, Grande Fermeda, Odla da Cisles and Sass de Mesdì
Best routes on Sass de Mesdì - UIAA Scale
- SSW Ridge Via Dibona V- (a move), 400 m. First ascent: Angelo Dibona, Rudi Heller, Karl Huter and Gustav Jahn 1917, June 23rd
- Via Jahn IV+, V (a short move), 290 m. First ascent: K. Huter, G. Jahn, E Merlet, O. Müller, P. Richter 1917
- South Pillar Via Malsiner – Moroder VI (V+, A0), 235 m. First ascent: V. Malsiner, L. Moroder summer 1957
- Via della Rampa IV+, 180 m. First ascent: unknown
Via Dibona report
Summit altitude: m 2762
Difficulty: Alpine D-, UIAA max V-
Route length: 400 m
First ascent: Angelo Dibona, Rudi Heller, Karl Huter and Gustav Jahn 1917, June 23rd
Starting point: Col Raiser or Rifugio Firenze
The pleasant atmosphere, the facing S exposure, the rock generally good and the stunning views make this route one of the most classic and frequented climb of the Odle. An advisable climb. The number of pegs is essential (12 pegs on the route, belays included) and needs a good competence to integrate the protections.
L1- Follow the horizontal ledge to the left for a few meters reaching soon a gully narrowing into a chimney. Climb it keeping the right side (1 peg) and then traverse left to reach a small terrace formed by a boulder jammed inside the chimney - II, III and IV, 40 m. Anchor on a hole.
L2 - Climb the upper section of the chimney keeping on a slab on the right. At its end, easier rocks lead to the left to a little notch, then horizontally to the base of a pillar located to the left of an overhanging chimney - IV and II, 50 m. Belay on an outcrop.
L3 - Climb the pillar for about ten meters. Before getting to a most steep and challenging section, traverse horizontally to the left, overlooking the gully between Odla de Cisles and Sass Mesdi. Climb a small overhang (peg) and then the slab to the right, going around the pillar and getting the upper section of an obvious chimney on the right. Belay on a big outcrop. IV, 40 m.
L4 - Up the chimney on good holds, exiting on a terrace. From the terrace climb a slab, heading to a small corner on the right and reaching it below an overhang (2 pegs). Climb the corner (1 peg), passing a single challenging step (V-). Belay uncomfortably at its end III, IV, V- (a move) 45 m
"Arrampicare Dolomiti Nord-Occidentali" vol. I by M. Bertolotti, L. Galbiati, F. Vascellari - Vividolomiti
“Arrampicare in Val Gardena e dintorni Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” Vol. I by Mauro Bernardi, Ed. Athesia
“Arrampicare in Val Gardena e dintorni Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” Vol. II by Mauro Bernardi, Ed. Athesia
“Odle–Pùez” by Lorenzo e Pietro Meciani - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI
Tabacco Val Gardena 1:25.000 Tabacco sheet 30 – Bressanone 1:25.000