Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.07000°N / 121.771°W |
Route Type:
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Scramble |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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Class 3-4 |
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Approach
Coming from the Portland area, take I-84 east to Cascade Locks and cross the Columbia River via the Bridge of the Gods. Across the bridge, turn right on Hwy 14 and follow it east ~6mi to the turn off to Carson (signed) on Hwy 30. From the junction, continue north ~14.5mi turning off onto Wind River Road (signed for Mt. St. Helens) and continue another 15.8mi to to turn right onto Lone Butte Road. Continue on a good gravel road for ~8mi, again turning right on gravel FR 24 and continue ahead about 0.5mi to the the trailhead (signed) for the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). There is a small parking area just before the PCT on the left.
Route Description
From the parking area off of FR 24 (elevation ~4250'), follow the PCT south through huckleberry fields and forest for ~1.2mi to reach a junction with the Sawtooth Mountain Trail (#107). Here, go straight/left, following this new trail which parallels the PCT below while climbing up the western flanks of Sawtooth Mountain. Continue on for ~0.5mi to arrive at an overlook on the right -- and where the jagged ridge above comes into view. This is a good spot to drop packs.
Opposite the overlook, locate a narrow climber's trail that snakes its way up to the base of the ridge, bearing left and climbing to reach a saddle between spires of eroded volcanic rock. From here, make your way northwards, going wherever is easiest, winding your way up between the spires and gendarmes to reach the summit (5353'). While it doesn't look it initially, the entire route is class 3-4 scrambling with some minimal exposure. The northernmost high point along the ridge looks to be the true summit.
Alternately from the saddle it is also possible to head south along the ridge, climbing the pinnacles. This route is a bit more committing and more exposure - we rigged a rope to rappel down about twenty feet in one section. Continue along the ridge dropping up and down as needed until you reach the south end, where an obvious climber's trail on the west side bypasses a final set of gendarmes. Continue on the climber's trail which winds downward and reconnects with the Sawtooth Mountain Trail on the west side of the mountain - head right/north to return to the overlook.
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Essential Gear
While a confident scrambler could probably get by without rope and climbing protection, a rope, harness and a few good slings (possibly a rap ring) may not be a bad idea -- particularly if you're attempting the southern traverse along the ridge. We did not end out using any rock pro at all along either route - and the rope just once for a 20' rappel. There is some danger of falling or loose rock (test those holds!) -- helmets are probably a very good idea. Bring the bug spray in the summer!