"1. Climb (easy scramble) due west from Elinore Lake gaining 500-800ft to the bowl just below Sill Glacier with Glacier Notch due north" The route from Elinore to the bowl by the unnamed lake has about 1300' elevation gain. It is class 2, and the boulders are stable (mostly), but there is a lot of boulder-hopping.
It's probably easier to go on the north side of the unnamed lake (~3730m).
Getting up to near the North Couloir route, from the unnamed lake, is not completely trivial. The stair-steppy wall on the right (N side of bowl, below Gayley) has a few class 3 (or harder) breaks. We saw foot traffic at the top of the gully W-WNW of the lake, but not much indication of use at the bottom; that gully may be easy, but looked pretty unstable. If one follows the wall WNW, almost to that same gully, there is a rough ramp that cuts back NE, thence to class 3 terrain and the top of the wall. There was one cairn partway up this route.
MoapaPk - Jul 23, 2012 4:11 pm - Hasn't voted
option 1a"1. Climb (easy scramble) due west from Elinore Lake gaining 500-800ft to the bowl just below Sill Glacier with Glacier Notch due north" The route from Elinore to the bowl by the unnamed lake has about 1300' elevation gain. It is class 2, and the boulders are stable (mostly), but there is a lot of boulder-hopping.
It's probably easier to go on the north side of the unnamed lake (~3730m).
Getting up to near the North Couloir route, from the unnamed lake, is not completely trivial. The stair-steppy wall on the right (N side of bowl, below Gayley) has a few class 3 (or harder) breaks. We saw foot traffic at the top of the gully W-WNW of the lake, but not much indication of use at the bottom; that gully may be easy, but looked pretty unstable. If one follows the wall WNW, almost to that same gully, there is a rough ramp that cuts back NE, thence to class 3 terrain and the top of the wall. There was one cairn partway up this route.