Scoopin’ Booty, 5.10-, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

This route is several grades up in difficulty than its neighbor, Time’ll Tell.  The local guide (2022) lists Time’ll Tell at 5.9+ and Scoopin’ at 5.10-.  Time felt no more difficult than any 5.9 in the Stronghold and Scoopin felt like a solid 5.10-, so essentially expect 5.9 vs 5.10b.  They are both worthy routes on great stone with solid protection.  The bolts were placed where needed and were relatively modern as of 2022 (both of these routes on Ghost Dome appear established in 2011).  Scoopin’ does not have any bolts on its independent pitches, 1^st and 2^nd , but it does share the same 3^rd and 4^th pitches as Time which do involve a few protection bolts.  As mentioned below, the 4^th pitch, as detailed in the guide, is really not a pitch of climbing by Stronghold standards.  I am surprised the FAer’s could not make a completely independent line out of Scoppin’ vs trending left and finishing on Time.  That being said, the first two pitches offered stellar trad climbing by Cochise standards. 

The lone route post on MP.com insinuated that the 1^st pitch was as difficult if not more so than the 2^nd (crux) pitch.  In physicality maybe, but the start of the 2^nd pitch involves bolder climbing.  What is misleading in the guide book is that from the summit shoulder, atop pitch three, double 60m ropes get you back to the base of the wall from medium cams.  This makes it much quicker to do both routes and then just one team member needs to rap and bushwhack down the back gully after the 2^nd route is climbed, which offers some exposure and time getting down. 

Pass Whale Dome and stay in the wash proper to access the gully between Whale Dome and Ghost Dome to the west.  Bushwhack up this gully until you can traverse north below the east face of Ghost Dome.  It is a bushwhack.  After doing a 4th class move right next to the wall in an alcove, look for a bolted line (Time’ll Tell).  Scoopin’ is the obvious crack/corner 20’ further north.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 100’-5.9/ Considerably less length than the guide book has this pitch (a theme with the local guide book as of 2022).  A considerable step up in difficulty from any pitch on Time’ll Tell.  Move 20’ to the right of Time and climb the obvious corner.  It starts out a thin left facing corner and opens up to a bit of off-width/chimney, pulling through a bulge via stemming.  The larger pockets and cracks are flaring, you end up using mostly small gear and off-sets to protect.  The crux is getting through the steep wide portion.  Belay at a stance on chickenheads below the headwall above. Again, mostly small to micro gear for the belay.  Wires are handy for the belay and start of the next pitch  which is the crux of the route.

2^nd-3^rd Pitches- 170’-5.10-/ These pitches can easily be combined.  Pull the bulge onto the upper headwall via micro wires or cams (crux).  Continue following a finger seam.  Near the end, angle up and right and then back left along a ledge to finish on the same 3^rd pitch of Time’ll Tell which follows three bolts up the left side of the upper face to a medium gear belay on the summit shoulder. 

 4^th Pitch- 40’-5^th/ The guide book calls this route 4 pitches when in reality it is essentially 2 pitches.  This last pitch is more 4^th class than 5^th class.  Finish up to the summit on well featured slab.

Descent

From the summit, descend into the notch and move left to fixed rap hangers.  Make a short rappel down into the gully below.  Bushwhacking out of the gully trends skiers right, then back left at an exposed slab to a large tree where I did a full body stem between the slab and tree to get down.  There is aged rap tat on a tree for a 2nd rap above this slab traverse.  Most competent Cochise climbers will be comfortable downclimbing this section.  It is also possible with double 60m ropes to rap from the summit back down to the base of the wall in one rap.  Can use medium gear and one partner can retrieve it after climbing Scoopin’ Booty or Time’ll Tell and do the rear gully rap descent while the other raps back to the packs and then each partner can meet in the main gully below Whale Dome and Ghost Dome.

Essential Gear

Double 60m ropes if you want to do both routes or just a single 60m rope if doing one route and rapping behind the summit.  To do both routes, double to #1, single #2-#3 and double #4’s (for Time’ll Tell).  Micro wires or cams especially for the crux of Scoopin’ Booty.  A few off-set wires or cams for flares.  Route receives eastern sun exposure.