Scrambling up Roteck

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Scrambling up Roteck
Created On: Dec 21, 2013
Last Edited On: Apr 30, 2014


At 3337 m, Roteck is the highest peak in the Texel Group.

Goats near the LafaisbachGoats on the slopes above the Lafaisbach
The easiest route to the summit follows the east ridge. Its mostly hiking along a rough, steep trail, with a short scrambling section thrown in. The crux of the route is protected by cables.
Starting at the Lodner Hütte, several clear signs point towards Roteck, and in the beginning the trail up the Lafais valley is wide. Soon there is a less clearly marked turnoff to the right, leaving the valley floor - if you find yourself crossing the Lafaisbach running down the valley, you've missed it.

After that one spot, the trail is hard to miss for quite a while. Much higher, cairns and paint marks further help to point out the route.

If visibility is poor, then, on the way down, make real sure that you do not descend the wrong ridge. On the summit plateau, a really big cairn points the way to the east ridge.

A big cairn on Roteck
The big cairn on the edge of the summit plateau, pointing towards the east ridge. Very useful in poor visibility

A huge cairn on the Roteck east ridgeBig cairn
Lots of route markers high on the Roteck east ridge scramble
Lots of paint marks
Protective cable high on the Roteck east ridge
Most of the route is unprotected, but the most tricky and exposed places have a cable to hold on to, or to clip in

Panoramic view to Ginggljoch (2938m) and Roteck (3337m)
A year after I climbed Roteck, I took this panoramic photo from the NE, from the slopes of the Lodner. The summit is the snowy one in the center. 
The normal route basically follows the long east ridge, prominently visible here, coming up from the left. At first it's hiking, but high up you have to scramble a bit (UIAA grade I), and there are some exposed sections. A steel cable helps to secure the way.


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Scrambling up Roteck

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