For the south approach you have to follow the road until Matrei
, then the Virgental
to the end of the valley to the village Streden
, 1403m where there is a parking place. You have to pay 3 euros for one day or 9 euros for one week.
From the parking place you must reach the hut Essener-Rostocker
, 2208m over the long valley Maurer Tal
. The route is well marked. You will need from 2-3 hours to the hut.
On the SE ridge of Simonyspitze.
From the hut you continue over the marked route in the north direction. On the first crossing you turn to the right and on the second to the left. You must follow the signposts for the Simonyspitze. Now you follow marked route all the way up to the start of the SE ridge. You will walk over nice grassy slopes btu they are steep. Just before the first rock section the marked route ends.
From here you climb over the rocks looking for the best passages. Soon you come to the short part of the glacier. From here the difficulty depends on snow condition. In early season you will have steep snowy ridge up to 60°. In the late season you will have some section of climbing around UIAA II. The SE ridge comes on the main ridge, on the east side of the Östlicher Simonyspitze. For reaching the summit you have to climb over the airy snow ridge.
From Östlicher Simonyspitze to Westlicher Simonyspitze you have 30 minutes of climbing (UIAA II) on snowy and icy ridge.
The best possibilty is to descend by the same route.
Ice axe, ropes and crampons are necessary.
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