Thanks Dow for the great write up on Secret Tryst. Bolts seem to be the norm on all Lime Kiln routes. Also, their is absolutely no need to rappel off only one bolt. All Secret Tryst stations are equipped also for rappel, with Pitches #1, #3, #5, and #6 with glue-in Fixe bolts. Mega beef! The Glue In anchors (some being U type/two holes) work also to distinguish this route and point the way....you are so correct, so many routes all over that part of the wall...it is otherwise easy to trend off to another line.
The best beta is hand/wrist taping for the upper exit pitches, otherwise prepare to bleed! Lime Kiln is the best limestone climbing I have ever done in the Lower 48!
To give credit where credit is due, it was James Garrett from SLC, and his wife who did the FA. I can't emphasize enough that a person should tape up for the last pitch. It has been several weeks, and I still have scabs on the backs of my hands. I was disappointed to see so many bolts next to cracks on this wall. An experienced trad climber could climb nearly the entire route with a rack of cams.
Joe, you need to "harden da fuck up!" (my best aussie acsent) Don't know where Garrett "brothers" came from, but will correct it, thanks.
The first three pitches on this wall, no matter the route, are great. After that, the rock can be brutal on the fingers and hands. The 3rd, 4th and 6th pitches are all equally stiff, requiring completely different climbing. 3rd is fun face problems requiring balance. The 4th is a an awesome roof-corner issue, the 6th is a really nasty sharp steep corner that is sure to make you bleed. I love the area. Really surprising setting to be sure.