Very long day, and the day I learned the meaning of "commitment". Great partners though, plus perfect weather, made for a memorable route I still talk about 3 decades later. Looooose & scary in the "bowling alley" gully. Got off route near the top. Descending Asgard is no fun in the dark. As Beckey says: "distinctly sporting".
Not very sustained, but the crux is solid 5.8. It could have been a reasonable day if we had scrambled everything above the crux pitches. Trip report.
Crux: getting a permit to camp at Colchuck Lake. This was a fine alpine route... tricky route-finding on the lower buttress. We soloed to the base of the excellent finger crack, and climbed 3 pitches before unroping for the rest.
Climbed it with Vivian D. I climbed it without rock shoes, made it much harder. This is a full on alpine climb, really liked all the pitches, nice variety. We did it in 2 days, bivied past the summit ridge outside of the permit zone. Then we descended the snowfield without axes or crampons.
Didn't find the start, got off route several times, went climber's right once we hit the death gulley and that cost us big. Very hard vertical hand/ringlock cracks at the final headwall (summitted at midnight). Snow froze on Asgard during the descent. Hugged the East Buttress- big mistake in approach shoes on a glacier. 6 snow bollard raps later... 25 hours car to car. Sheesh, we suck.
Did a alterate start they were the hardest pitches on the route @ 5.10. Two much crap for a few good pitches. Car to car 14 hrs.
Some so-so pitches and some pretty great pitches with a terrific partner made for a great day.