Sewenhorn Westgratturm m. 2650
Sewenhorn Westgratturm is a fine granite tower rising along the Sewenhorn summit ridge. Its South face shows some beautiful climbing routes on very good rock. The approach is from the Meiental, a valley starting from Wassen and getting to the Sustenpass.
From Andermatt - a small town at St. Gotthard Tunnel’s northern exit (Canton Uri) - reach Wassen and here turn to left following the road to Sustenpass, reaching Meien, the signpost to Farnigen and a first pull-out along the road (signpost to Sewenhutte). Carry on about three-hundred meters reaching a second wider pull-out m. 1613 (Gorezmettlenbach). Signpost to Sewenhutte. Parking. (15 km. from Andermatt).
From the town of Meiringen (Haslital, Berner Oberland) follow the road to Sustenpass, reaching Gadmen and the Sustenpass, then descent along the Eastern side reaching the place named Gorezmettlenbach m. 1613 (signpost to Sewenhutte). Parking in a pull-out. (40 km. from Meiringen)
WALKING ACCESS TO SEWEN HUT
From the Sustenpass road there are two approach’s paths to Sewen Hut; the better one is the higher (the second one coming from Wassen) starting from Gorezmettlenbach m. 1613. From here a very good path leads to Sewen Hut (1,20 hours from the pull-out).
No particulary restrictions in climbing and mountaineering.
Summit Altitude: m. 2650 D, F4c Climbing length: 180 m. First ascent: M. Epp – R. Hefti 1975 Re-equipped by Wisi Arnold und Kari Stadler, 1998 Exposure: S Starting point: Gorezmettlen (Sustenpass road) Hut: Sewen Hut SAC Pfannenstiel A very interesting classic route on excellent granite offering a fine climb on a characteristic wide corner which gives the route’s line. All the belays have excellent equipment.
Route report (French scale)
It’s possible climb the route directly from Gorezmettlen (1000 meters dl. from the starting point to the summit); otherwise you can spend the night to the Sewen Hut.
From Sewen Hut head to North (on your left-hand side when getting to the hut) following a not very obvious trail rising towards a crag (equipped single pitch’s routes). From the crag turn to left following a long level trail leading to a steep and wide scree-slope. Climb it making a wide semicircle towards left to reaching the bottom of a very steep rocky and scree gully (red marks). Climb it, then traverse to right (red marks) skirting the rocks and reaching a huge block, nearby a red mark with a bolt. (1 hour from the hut, 2,20 hours from the parking).
L1 – From the starting point climb the gully, then its right side, leading to some slabs with good holds. Belay on the right. 4b L2 – Up a good slab, leading to a little overhang; climb it on its left edge, then a fine wall, steep but with good holds, leading towards right inside a steep corner. Climb it and reach the stance. 4c L3 – A very pleasant and beautiful climb along the characteristic wide corner, sloping at first, then steeper leads to a good stance a bit on the right of the corner. 4b L4 – Another good and satisfactory pitch inside the corner. Belay on the left under an obvious overhang. 4b L5 – From the stance climb straight towards the overhang, then skirt it on the right (crux) and reach the stance. L6 – Easy rocks leading to the beautiful summit. Summit cairn and summit-book.
Best descent: from the little summit scramble down to reach the first abseil’s anchor, then make four abseils on the route. Another way, more complex, is scrambling down towards East (towards left facing out) along the summit ridge to reach a gully coming down at the bottom.
- VOIE DES MULHOUSIENS 5c+ 180 m. - D. Ferrand, A. Muller, Ch. Ochsenbein, 1978 Re-equipped by Wisi und Fabian Arnold, 1999
- PAULA UND JAKOB 5c, A0 180 m. - B. Müller and H. Zgraggen, 1991 Re-equipped by Wisi und Fabian Arnold, 1999
Rope 2x50, 8 quickdraws, friends 1-3, nuts, helmet, slings
- Sewenhütte 2148 m
Guardian: Walti and Ursi Gehrig
Size: 60 persons
Guarded from july to September
Phone: +41(0) 41 885 18 72
Best season goes from July to the end of September
“Schweiz plaisir Ost” by Jurg von Kanel, Edition Filidor
Maps: CNS1211 Meientall – CNS 255 Sustenpass