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MountainGazer

MountainGazer - Aug 6, 2014 4:26 am - Hasn't voted

Tough One

Me and Nate tried this one on a beautiful day last weekend. I was stoked simply to look at a summit register that gets signed only once every 4 or 5 years.
But a word to the wise: this approach is a bit understated on this page. I can understand exactly why Sheep Gap gets so little traffic: a route finding, bushwhacking, long up and down traverse to get to a peak that is shorter, somewhat more exposed and technical (but not super quality) and not as prominent as some awesome, awesome scrambles in the area (Del Campo).
It takes a certain kind of masochist to put themselves through getting to the top of this peak. You must be in excellent condition and have route finding skills and time to do it in a day, as well as nothing better to do.

And a specific note on the approach: where the "x" is marked in the photo, from there me and Nate were pushed into a super steep bushwhacking traverse. Most of the traverse from the tarns is pleasant, but this section was brutal enough to almost make me cry. Maybe it's just me, but I don't like fighting scrubby trees on steep traverses.
On our way back we avoided this by biting the bullet and dropping altitude to go up the red rock gulley back to the traverse. All in all, probably a time saver, and it didn't wrench tears from my eyes.
Nate was tired from our recent Baker climb, and he wasn't super stoked about this peak anyway, so when we got to the base of the peak I suggested we race back and climb Del Campo, which he'd never done, so at least he could get the good views of this day.

Try Sheep Gap only if you have nothing better to do with a day, and you really like the wilderness experience of finding your way and fighting through obstacles.
I'll probably come back and climb this peak someday, but preferably as part of a more relaxed 2 or 3 day camp out at Gothic Basin, simply because of all this work I've done to figure out the approach.
Do yourself a favor, and do the same. Gothic Basin is beautiful, and this climb is a long day no matter how you shape it. Me and Nate are in pretty strapping condition and made it to Gothic Basin in 2 hours. But coupled with an hour and a half rest break and dip at the tarn (we didn't do Del Campo, having run out of energy) it still made for a 12 hour day, and we didn't even noodle with the rope.
But I still want like hell to read that register.

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