Shirley and Blondie on the...

Shirley and Blondie on the (frigid) morning hike in to Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art formation. Route's peculiar summit is the second highest point in this shot (the contorted spire). The Ancient Art complex is surprisingly two dimensional - i.e. very skinny along the line of sight from parking lot! The tallest tower is Kingfisher viewed "head-on" (December 24, 2004).


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Aaron Johnson

Aaron Johnson - Jan 6, 2005 11:24 pm - Voted 10/10

Hey Radek-

When Ellen and I were there, we saw people on the top of this route and I wondered what it was called. Now I know. Thanks for adding it to SP. What did you think of the climb and the rock quality? Looks a bit crumbly to me. Perhaps it's more solid up top, especially to look as bizarre as it does. The top does look two dimensional in my pictures as well, not a lot to hang on to. What was it really like? I'm curious.


rpc - Jan 7, 2005 1:49 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Hey Radek-

Hi Aaron,

thanks for stopping by.

What did you think of the climb and the rock quality

I thought that the rock got progressively better higher up (so so on pitch 1, OK on pitch 2 chimney, and pretty much fine on the last two pitches). I thought that the climbing was reasonable but please keep in mind we pulled on draws thru. the A0 sections. Pitch 1 below the bolt ladder is a low 5th class scramble - nothing hard just watch those loose holds. Pitch 2 chimney protects surprisingly well (considering how it looks) and the climbing is probably a .7. Pitch 3 has one 5.6 move (then some low 5th) I think right off the belay and with the A0 moves is fairly trivial (short). PItch 4 (THE reason to do this climb) starts with an exposed walk out towrds the spire, then has an awkward mantle (this is height dependent - easier for taller folks IMHO) move (about 5.8). Then you clip a piton and do a balancy kind of a face move which is probably again about a 5.8. This brings you to a small ledge on right side of spire about halfway up it. Here comes the crux of the pitch - a hard mantle onto an angled slab at about chest level. It's supposed to be about 5.9 but I couldn't figure it out....there's another piton right there so again you can just pull on that and do one more A0 move :) This pretty much is the top of the spire. Most I think take turns topping out on this summit - i.e. you'd lower off the summit spire (slings around it) and the 2nd would top rope the pitch. The spire doesn't look as "wobbly" as it seems to from down below but the exposure if pretty wild.

This is a fun, short climb (pitches are short) that is supposed to be crazy popular during the in-season (was empty in late December though ;). The free difficulty can be kept at about 5.8 by pulling on draws in the 3 sections I's a different sort of a summit that I think you'd really enjoy Aaron!

Please let me know if you have some other questions on this (feel free to email me)

take care



Bonesaw - Apr 23, 2008 9:46 pm - Voted 10/10

This is a GREAT shot!

Nice one rpc! My fiance and I are planning our honeymoon to the southern Utah area this fall and plan to climb the Stolen Chimney route. Can't wait! Thanks for posting such an AWESOME photo.


rpc - Apr 23, 2008 10:24 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: This is a GREAT shot!

Thank you for the good word! You guys will love it -- so unique...careful or you'll pick up a desert tower addiction (worse than heroin!)


Bonesaw - Apr 24, 2008 12:23 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: This is a GREAT shot!

At the level I'm currently climbing, that addiction will be hard to feed. I hear most of the desert towers are pretty darn hard. Something to strive for, eh? Have a great one!

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