Shockley's Ceiling

Page Type
New York, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Rock Difficulty:
5.6 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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71.06% Score
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Created On: Oct 23, 2009
Last Edited On: Nov 12, 2009


Some people love this climb, I personally don't find it all that great except the roof (the only crux on the entire route).

Pitch 1: There are different way to start this, but most people just climb up the chimney to a ledge for belay (5.4, PG, 50').

Pitch 2: From the right side of the ledge, move up right and pass a right facing corner. Once pass the corner, keep going to another corner. The start following the natural line on the face to an alcove below an obvious ceiling (shockley's). (5.5, PG, 120')

Pitch 3: Follow the crack under the ceiling, take a deep breath, pull the roof. You can and should belay right above the roof so you can hear your belayer. This one takes some mid size cams. (5.6, PG, 50')

Pitch 4: From belay stand, move up and right to pass the corner, climb the overhand and follow the crack to the top. A lot of people actually think this crux is harder than the roof. (5.5, G, 50')

Shockley s CeilingPitch 1, climb up the chimney and set up belay.

Shockley s CeilingPitch 2, a little bit confusing because the chalk marks. just remember to shoot for the right facing corners.

Shockley s CeilingPitch 3, feel free to sew this one up, it takes midsize cams.

Shockley s CeilingPitch 3, up an over, nothing to worry, big jugs all over the place.