Mount Lougheed

Overview

An imposing mountain viewed from Exshaw or Deadman Flats consisting of 4 summits. The first one was formally called West Wind Mountain. The top most summit is seen well from the summit of Rimwall just across Wind Pass to the north. I used to think that this peak was named after the Former Premier of Alberta, Peter Lougheed but was in fact re-named in 1928 after Sir James Lougheed a prominant Lawyer.

Getting There

One way is from Calgary take the Trans-Canada Highway towards Canmore. There follow signs for Dead Mans Flats.

The other way is from Calgary take the Trans-Canada Highway towards Canmore.Continue through and head out of Canmore on the Smith-Dorrien/Spray Lakes road past the Grassi Lakes and the Goat Creek day use parking. Continue on the unpaved Spray lakes road for about 22km out of Canmore. 4-5km passsed the dam you will see a sign for Spurling Creek. A small parking area is to the right just before the sign. You will find the trail head on the other side of the road. Begin by following the obvious trail through the woods to the left of the creek bed. About 20 minutes into the hike you will see some red ribbons on the left. You should continue straight here and you will be heading to West Wind Pass. Turning left would take you to Rimwall. The trail become more obvious as you reach the pass itself. From the top of the pass head right onto the shoulder up talus slopes to the base of some rock bands on the NW peak. The guide book recommends staying to the right of the ridge. Traversing back and forth avoiding any diffuculties. This part is rated 5.5. Descend the same way.

You can do a complete traverse of the 4 peaks. It is described well in Sean Dougherty's Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies pages 44-45.

Red Tape

No red tape. This is a day trip (Full day). It would be wise to check in and out with the Rangers at the Spray Lake Ranger Station (403) 678-5533 or someone in Canmore such as the ACC.

Route Overview

Traverse III 5.5
(South to North) one or two days with the latter preferred
Start form the Spurling creek parking to West Wind pass. Windtower-Col.
Guide book mentions climbing talus to the rock bands. Then keeping to the right of this. 5.5 to the first summit. Follow the ridge chosing which side you find the easiest. The other summits are done by following the ridge and going up and down the talus. Descend the southwest ridge to Ribbon creek. I suggest buying Sean Dougherty's Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies which describes the route well. Page 45.

Northeast face.
As mentioned in the guide this wall is made up of rotten rock. While it hase been climbed it is not recommended by those who made the first ascent.

North side of the Northwest summit
This has 3 long rock climbs that are mentioned but not covered in the guide.

When To Climb

The summer months would be the most popular. June to end of September.

Camping

There are campgrounds in the area if desired
Spray Lakes West Shore Campground has 50 sites (403) 591-7226
There is also the Alpine Club of Canada lodge with rooms and excellent facilities of 19$ CDN a night. The Alpine Club of Canada (403) 678-3200, ext 1

Mountain Conditions

Spray Lake Ranger Station. (403) 678-5533
Alberta Tourist Visitor Centre (403) 678-5277
The Alpine Club of Canada (403) 678-3200, ext 1
weather office or (403) 762-2088 for weather conditions

Images

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