Hohe Villerspitze

Overview

Mighty mountain in the southeastern part of the Sellrain mountain range which is a part of the Subai mountain range. No really easy way up to this mountain the easiest one being the southwest face (UIAA II). Though the guide (vide infra) claims that this is a frequently climbed mountain I found only a handful ascents in the summit book in August 2003.

Getting There

You can approach to this mountain from the north or from roughly south-east (recommended).
South-east: In Neustift in the Stubai valley head to the Oberbergtal (Seduck). Follow the street until it ends on a big parking range (OberIss-Hütte, 1745 m). From there proceed to the Franz-Senn-Hütte.
North: Leve the Inntal highway at exit Zirl Ost and head to Gries im Sellrain. From there go southwards to Lüsens (1636 m).

When To Climb

Climbing is recommended only at dry conditions without rests of snow.
This makes it possible roughly from July until September.

Routes

"Schiefer Gang" and south west wall: normal ascent UIAA II
southwest ridge: III (mostly II)
south wall: III (mostly II)
East ridge (Schaldersgrat): III

Guides and Maps

The recommended guide is the "Alpenvereinsführer" "Stubaier Alpen" by Walter Klier (Bergverlag Rother, 2002)
ISBN: 3-7633-1271-4 (Description)

A detailed map is available from the Alpenverein (Stubaier Alpen - Sellrain - 31/2 1: 25000)
This map is available with or without routes for ski mountaineering (Description).

A good map is sold by freytag & berndt (Innsbruck, Stubai - Seelrain, Brenner 1:50000, WK241).
(Description)

Mountain Conditions

Mountain conditions are available from the huts in the vicinity.

Winter climbing: Propability of avalanges can been found here: Lawinenwarndienst - Österreich

Information of alpine weather is found here: Wetter

Huts in the Vicinity

General Information on huts is given in Jo's Hüttenliste

Franz-Senn-Hütte: 2147 m, Tel.: +(A) 05226 / 2500 and 05226 / 2218 (Mid Feb. - Mid May and Mid June - Beginning of October)
They have a homepage: Franz-Senn-Hütte

Lüsens: 1636 m, Tel.: +(A) 05236 / 215 (Always opened)

Red Tape

Climbing is allowed at any time. A parking pass is required to park in OberIss (possibly in Lüsens as well)

Camping

The whole area is a "Naturschutzgebiet " (similar to a national park) which prohibits camping, possibly bivouaking is allowed (at least tolerated). Sleeping is of course possible in the surrounding huts.
Camping is possible in Volderau (some kilometers from Neustift in the Stubaital).

Images

View Hohe Villerspitze Image Gallery - 6 Images