Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.43000°N / 13.82000°E |
Route Type:
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Combined Hike and Ferratta |
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Time Required:
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One to two days |
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Difficulty:
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Ferrata sections, tough |
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About Route
This is tough and long climb with huge altitude difference of more than 1700 meters but is considered as a classic Skrlatica route. Requires quite an effort to do it in one day but it is mostly done that way. Some people reach Bivak IV bivouac, sleep over there and continue in the morning. Even more popular combination is to start at Vrata and continue towards Pogacnikov Dom hut (Trenta route) or vice versa.
Starting point of the route is Aljazev Dom hut (1015m), which lies in the heart of the Vrata valley. More info about the hut is on the front page. Hut is accessible by car from Mojstrana village (12km), which is placed in the upper Savska Dolina valley at the end of Vrata valley (71km to Ljubljana, 13 to Kranjska Gora). You exit from the main road following the signs either to 'Mojstrana' or 'Vrata'. If you are using public transport you will have to walk up the Vrata valley from Mojstrana (2.30h).
Vrata (Door) is probably the most beautiful alpine valley in Slovenia. It is glacial valley, beginning bellow mighty Triglav and it’s gigantic north wall, spreading towards northeast till Mojstrana village and upper Savska Dolina valley. Powerful creek Triglavska Bistrica runs through it, which source is just bellow Triglav’s Face. Sides of the Vrata valley are very steep and high. Two of the Slovenia’s highest peaks are rising above it. On the north side is Skrlatica (2740m) while on the south is Triglav (2864m) and many other above 2500m. View on Triglav’s 1200m high and few kilometers wide north face is one of the most impressive in whole of the Alps!
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Aljazev Dom hut in Vrata valley - Skrlatica (2734m): 5-6h
Trail begins near the chapel by the Aljazev Dom hut. Gradually ascends through the forest till it reaches viewing point bellow the smooth cliff of Dolkova Glava (1717m). Than it turns left, firstly over the grassy slopes and over steep scree reaches less steep, undulating terrain just bellow the Stenar’s face (2501m). Behind this section path enters a steep and narrow scree valley, which spreads from Stenarska Vratca pass (2295m) and is surrounded by smooth cliffs. After some 10 minutes of ascend through it trail turns sharply right and gets out climbing steep slopes bellow Na Rusju plateau, where Bivak IV bivouac stands (1980m). Bivouac is cannot be seen till the last meters. 2.30-3h from Aljazev Dom hut.
Path continues in the same direction, crossing Na Rusju plateau, heading towards the foothills of enormous Dolkova Spica (2591m), which towers above and occupies half of the horizon. Ones the slopes are reached, path turns right ascending on a grassy balcony and traverses the slopes bellow the cliffs of Dolkova Spica. This balcony has fantastic views on Vrata deep bellow, Triglav and it’s face, soon Skrlatica comes into view. Path now descends little bit in rocky basin where snow remains till summer.
On the other side of it steep ascent awaits you. Over a hundred meter high rocky step, path will take you to the bottom of huge scree slope that runs down from Zadnji Dolek basin, which is squeezed between Skrlatica, Rakova Spica and Dolkova Spica. This is enormously tough section. Around 200 meters of vertical ascent over this soft scree slope will damage your nerves. One step forward and two steps back is the way it goes J. But this slope is fantastic on the way back as you can ski down on your shoes in few minutes. Ever moving path will take you high up, to the right, where you enter the ferratta and Skrlatica summit climb. One more hour to go.
Numerous pegs and fixed steel ropes take you to the right climbing all the time. Cliffs are not too exposed and the ascent is amusing and attractive with few very interesting sections. Once you reach the south ridge path turns sharply left and you are out of the cliffs. Ridge to the summit is long, steep and quite exposed with fantastic panoramas. In 30 minutes you are standing bellow the cross on the summit of Skrlatica. 2.30-3h from the bivouac.
Vid Pogachnik - May 21, 2006 6:51 pm - Voted 10/10
Fine description!Thanks for it! A few tips: 1. attach your nice photos. 2. some typos: - to start at Vrata -> to start in vrata - Trail begins near -> The trail begins near - Gradually ascends -> It gradually ascends - after some 10 minutes of ascend through it trail -> after some 10 minutes of ascent through it, the trail - Bivouac is cannot be seen -> Bivouac can not be seen ;-)