Windhorse

Approach

From the Stone House, follow the trail up the south (left) side of Tuttle Creek. The trail is tricky to follow, sometimes it goes up the hill, but mostly it stays level. After the fork in the canyon, stay high, skirting just below the slabs on the south wall of the canyon. Columbine Spring is the first water on the approach, and runs most of the year. Skirt the boulderfield along the left hand side, and cross the canyon through sparse manzanita at at the first large, brushy bench. There is a stream nearby where you can obtain water during most of the summer. Plan on 3-5 hours from the Stone House.

Route Description

See Topo.

Windhorse is located about 1/2 mile upcanyon from Direct South Face Lone Pine Peak, and ascends a huge left-facing crescent-shaped dihedral capped by roofs.

Five pitches of free climbing lead to Weakened Worriers Ledge, bivy for 3.

Higher up, at the top of the 9th pitch, it is joined by the route "Pathways through to Space". Cramped bivy for 2, hammock useful.

At the top of the 14th pitch, a double tension traverse to the right connects with easier ground. It then finishes via a variation of the Direct South Face that was climbed in the 1970s but never reported.

Essential Gear

See Topo.
Gear from tiny to twelve inches including
a few Lost Arrows
Alien Hybrids
Hooks: Talon, Grappling, Skyhook and sharpened skyhook
A few copperheads
A few beaks.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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