|Route Type:||Trad Climbing|
|Time Required:||Most of a day|
|Rock Difficulty:||5.10c (YDS)|
|Number of Pitches:||3|
Silver Threads and Black Rabbit are two 5.10 routes located on Necromancer just down from three of the best 5.10+ routes in the Needles, Gorilla Warfare, 5.10c, Witch Doctor, 5.10c and the Pit and the Pendulum, 5.10c. If you are climbing this incredible trio and no doubt leaving some gear at the base of the Witch’s southwest face, then I advise to keep it efficient and knock off Black Rabbit and Silver Threads as well.
Silver Threads is not near the route as the before mentioned routes on the lower Witch, but the finger corner on its first pitch and the interesting flake climbing on the remaining two pitches make it worthwhile. It is dirtier than most routes at the Needles and sees little traffic no doubt. You deal with grass and dirt and a bit of loose rock here and there. I combined the first two pitches on lead and would not do that again due to rope drag that bothered me on the last face move (crux of the route) to the lone fixed anchor on the route, and I am judicious on my extensions. Rather I advise to pitch it out and enjoy the finger crack and then re-gear up for the flakes. This does create a semi hanging belay below the roof atop the nice finger crack corner. The belay at the lone anchor atop pitch two is more comfortable for sure. The third pitch is a delight. It offers airy exposure pulling on flakes and is definitely the lessor technical pitch of the three.
Hike down the main notch to the bottom of the Witch to the col with Necromancer. There is a gully marked by a massive tree. Black Rabbit (your descent rap for Silver Threads) is visible up and right of the gully, via a shallow corner leading to a finger crack on the northwest edge of Necromancer. Drop your bags at the tree, suit up and head west to descend further to the main west face of Necromancer. The blocky scramble start is obvious, leading into a dirty right facing corner that leads to a clean steep finger crack corner.
1st/2nd Pitches- 210’-5.10b/ Even though I did combine these first two pitches, I do not recommend it. The traversing nature of this pitch, despite extensions, will cause serious rope drag for the final exposed 5.10 face moves up and left to the fixed anchor atop pitch two. Rather it would be best to suffer a hanging belay below the under-cling roof traverse out right. Start off the top of a block on easy but runout slab. Meander left to the dirty corner and climb it to the clean and steep right facing finger corner (5.10-) that leads to below the before mentioned under cling traverse out right. Take the traverse and climb the thin flake up to below a small roof that can be well protected with a #.75 vs a suspect #4 recommended in the local guide. Make an exposed 5.10- face move over the bulge and traverse directly left to the hidden three bolt fixed anchor. Dow
3rd Pitch- 105’-5.9+/ Move left to the thin flake (crux of the pitch, small pro) and climb it as it gets wider and eventually offers speedy climbing through many flake grabs. The pitch is steep for the first half. Gear belay plus slung knob on top of the formation (large ledge).
Rap Black Rabbit several meters to the north. A 70m gets you down to the main tree below within a few meters via 5.6 slab.
MP.com refers to a bunch of micro gear which has more to do with the final easier pitch start then the 5.10 pitches. I never placed any micro gear combining the first two pitches. The first corner takes all finger pieces. The flakes following that take mostly finger pieces as well with a few medium pieces. Single to #3. Double to #.75. Triple #.3 to #.4 with an additional set of off-sets and/or wires of that size (particulary if you decide to combine those first two pitches) . Route gets blasted with sun by noon in June.