Skrlatica from Vrata Valley

About the Route

This is tough and long climb with huge altitude difference of around 1800 meters but is considered as a classic Škrlatica route. Requires quite an effort to do it in one day but it is mostly done that way. Some people reach the Bivouac IV, sleep over there and continue in the morning. Even more popular combination is to start at Vrata and continue towards the Pogacnikov Dom (hut) or vice versa.

The starting point of the route is Aljažev Dom (hut), 1015 m, which lies in the heart of Vrata valley. We park (in 2024 25 EUR for a whole day) at the road end in Vrata valley, on 985 m. When the big parking lot is full, you must park in the village of Mojstrana (and take a tourist bus or walk into the valley, 2 h 30 min). More info about the hut is on the front page. The hut is accessible by car from Mojstrana village (12 km), which is placed in the upper Savska Dolina valley at the end of Vrata valley. It's 71 km to Ljubljana, 13 km to Kranjska Gora. You exit from the main road following the signs either to 'Mojstrana' or 'Vrata'.

Vrata (Door) is probably the most beautiful alpine valley in Slovenia. It is a glacial valley, beginning bellow the mighty Triglav and it’s gigantic north wall, spreading towards the northeast till Mojstrana village and the upper Sava valley. The powerful creek of Triglavska Bistrica runs through it, its source is just bellow the Triglav’s Face. The sides of Vrata valley are very steep and high. Two of Slovenia’s highest peaks are rising above it. On the north side is Skrlatica, 2740 m, while on the south is Triglav, 2864 m, and many other summits above 2500 m. The view on Triglav’s 1200 m high and few kilometers wide north face is one of the most impressive in whole of the Alps!

General

Route Description

From the parking lot we walk by the road till just before Aljažev dom (hut), where we take the marked path towards the NW (tables). The weak cart-road soon becomes a good path, ascending in turns through the woods. Approaching the cliffs of Dolkova glava, 1717 m, the path first turns right, then in two distinct turns changes the direction towards the west. Where the forest opens, on some 1410 m, there's a nice viewpoint on Cmir and Triglav.

Then the path continues ascending westwards, in many turns we go up by a rocky terrain, through the bushes and nice larch woods. Above us the N wall of Stenar is looming. On some 1500 m the path makes a few turns. When wet, there may be a water source, but better not count on it. On the right, steep, short walls are accompanying the path. In a more distinct valley, coming down from the Stenarska Vratca pass, 2295 m, the terrain clears and towards the right a good passage opens. On ca. 1850 m there's the trails branching.

We cross the ravine and on the other side continue ascending in the northwards direction. Nice passages through karstic terrain soon bring us up and the last shallow valley ends on the next trails branching, 1973 m. A few minutes to the left there's the Bivouac IV, but we shall continue straight (northwards). Some 2 h 30 min till there.

The path to Škrlatica continues over the slanted plateau Na rušju. We soon reach the flat, karstic valley below the SE ridge of Dolkova špica. There our marked path turns right and over the quite steep, grassy slope elegantly gains the ridge. That part is called Strme police (Steep Bands) and is really beautiful. The grassy balcony is very panoramic, on the right some crags are falling almost vertically down towards the Vrata valley. Our path is broad and comfortable, only in wet some additional care would be needed. It crosses the ridge in the NE direction. On the highest point, on ca. 2025 m, a great view on Škrlatica massif opens.

The next stretch of our trail brings us into the hidden high basin, called Zadnji Dolek. The path first descends some 40 m, reaching Spodnji Dolek, then starts climbing up more steeply again. We overcome one valley step, turn a bit to the right and then continue northwards again. So we detour the rocky bump of Kucelj, 2372 m, which is rising in the middle of Zgornji Dolek basin. The path turns towards the NW and on some 2300 m we reach the next trails branching. The route on Rdeča škrbina and Dolkova špica goes to the left, we shall continue to the right, over an unpleasant scree field to the Škrlatica south wall entry, on some 2360 m.

The first stretches over the rocks are not too steep, some care is needed, but the trail is protected only on a few places. Reaching below more compact walls, the trail starts traversing far to the right. It gets more exposed, but wherever needed, it's well secured. Some more demanding stretches bring you to the crux of the route. A polished, steep cliff must be traversed to the right. We mostly walk on hooks, holding a steel fixed rope and pegs. But that amusing, attractive section is short, when we overcome it, we already feel the S-SE ridge above us. Some more traversing towards the right and a short climb up bring us on the ridge, on some 2500 m. A wonderful view on the Rokavi ridge and V Kotlu basin opens on the other side.

On the ridge we turn sharp left. The first section steeply up is again protected by steel devices, some more stretches still require a lot of attention. Following the marks we choose the best passages. Higher the ridge becomes a bit less steep and demanding, we climb faster and on the last bump the big summit cross appears. The ridge part requires some 40 minutes, from the bivouac it's 2 h 30 min to 3 h.

Descent

Descent goes all the time by the same route. When leaving the S-SE ridge, be careful and don't continue by the attractive scree slope down. It doesn't end well! Keep right, carefully following the marks. Also count with the fact that climbing down will take you quite some time and require more attention than the ascent. Finally after the long traverse the marked path approaches the big scree fields above the Zadnji Dolek basin. There I suggest you to leave the marked path. Carefully continue traversing, keeping quite high. You will soon safely reach the soft scree slopes and whooosh you can slide down. Of course, if you left a part of your equipment at the rocks entry, you must keep left, finally reaching by gravel there. Then you return to the middle of the scree field, where the gravel is the softest, and continue sliding down. That way you will lose some 250 m of altitude in minutes.

The rest of descent then goes normally by the marked path. If you plan a rest, do it on the grassy balcony of Strme police.