Sleeping Giant Falls

Page Type
Montana, United States, North America
Route Type:
Ice Climbing
Time Required:
Half a day
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Sleeping Giant Falls
Created On: Feb 10, 2010
Last Edited On: Feb 18, 2010


Sleeping Giant Falls is a seldom visited piece of ice in the north of the popular Genesis area. It is a long approach for a short pitch, but well worth the hike.


Ice Below Sleeping GiantIce on the Approach

To approach Sleeping Giant Falls, park at the Grotto Fall trailhead. Head back down the road for 1/4 mile until you are directly below Upper Greensleeves, then turn right (west) and head uphill. If it hasn't snowed recently, a faint trail is usually found. Follow the trail up a short distance until it intersects with the old logging road, and follow this road to the left (north) a short distance, then turn uphill to the gully the falls is located. The gully you are looking for is the first major gully north of the Upper Greensleeves route. Hike up the trail, usually on the creekbed, for nearly 1 000 vertical feet to the falls. Once you are close, the gully will veer left at the piece of ice shown here - go up to the left, then traverse right to get above the ice or climb it at WI3-. The climb will be obvious at the top of this gully.

Route Description

Sleeping Giant Falls: 100' WI4
FA: Unknown
The falls is most easily done on the left at WI4, though usually the right side has overhanging icicles that can provide an enjoyable WI5 climb. Because of the orientation of the climb, it will look much easier than it is - on the approach it looks WI3, but once on the climb you will find it is vertical for the lower half. Once above the main bulge, it is an enjoyable 10m of WI3-. At the top, look up to the right for the tree anchor with lots of slings and cord running thru it. Though it looks too far to the right, the anchor works well for toproping with a 60m rope.

Essential Gear

Ice screws to your comfort level, typically around 6