Buckaroo - Oct 1, 2008 10:05 am - Hasn't voted
Index of ClimbsSlesse East Face Photo Topo Route Summary (route key letter; route name; first ascent info; grade)
A: Labour Day Buttress (Culbert, Douglas, Starr 1969) D- III 5.7/8
B: “Station D” North Buttress (Cassels-Dunlop, 2001) D- III 5.8 NOTE: This route starts a little to the left of what is shown, near the edge of shadow.
C: Flight 810 Buttress (Brayshaw-Webb 2003). Direct start (shown) climbed during an attempt in 2002 (6 pitches 5.9). Upper buttress (line not shown) climbed via Kubik-Soet ledges start: 8 pitches to Crown of gendarmes from junction with direct route, 1 30m rappel, then several hundred feet of scrambling to the third (SE) summit. D IV 5.8, D+ IV 5.9 with direct start.
D: South East Buttress (Nannery-Flavelle 1977) D+ IV 5.7 (this grade may be a sandbag)
D1: Kubik-Soet start to SE Buttress (1978)
D2: normal start to SE buttress. Can also begin up route F and traverse ledge as shown.
E: SE couloir (Neufeld-Isbell 2003). Winter route. TD- IV M4 or M5?
F: Navigator Wall (Burdo-Doorish 1987) ED1 V 5.10d
G: The Real McKim (Edwards-Franz 2001) ED1 V 5.10+
H: East Buttress (Stoddard-Mullen 1977). TD+ V 5.9 C2
I: East Buttress Direct (Child-Beckham 1993) ED1 V 5.10c
J: East Face (Easton-Edgar 1997) ED2 VI 5.9 A3+
K: North East Buttress (Beckey, Bjornstad, Marts 1963) TD V 5.9
K1: Bypass route (most commonly climbed start)
K2 : Original start (if combined with Buttress Crest Direct, bumps grade to TD+ V 5.10a)
Not shown on the North Face:
North Rib (Keisel –Lowe 1972) TD V 5.9
North Couloir (Serl, Wittmayer, Beckham 1980). Winter route, TD-, IV, alpine snow & ice to 65 degrees/5.8 rock & mixed. Can be climbed in spring/early summer as variant to North Rib (FA this var: McLane, Murrell 1977)
Fraser Ribber (Fraser-Ourom, 1982) TD- IV 5.8 (original grade) or 5.9 (Alpine Select grade) - ??
Arctic Wing (de Jong, McGregor, Gibbs 1989) Winter route. TD, IV/V alpine ice and mixed (rating not known, "steep mixed")
L: Bamboozled Buttress (Duncan-Hughes 2002) TD IV 5.10+
Access: Approach via Nesakwatch Creek and Propellor Cairn trail.
Technical: Fuji Sensia 100; Pentax Zoom90WR; scanned to PhotoCD
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