Climbed the NE buttress...we were able to keep the whole climb without exceeding 5.8. This was such a great climb and the bivy ledge is phenomenal!
It's a worthwhile objective, even if you don't do the NE buttress. The "Slesse Mountain Trail" is almost impossible to find. I followed a logging road for awhile, then headed straight up the ridge leading to (I think Parkes), the next minor peak north of Slesse. This was mostly not too bad. Traversing south, I picked up the standard SW route, which goes at 5.easy. I found the flagged trail on the way down, but its junction with the old logging road at the bottom is completely unmarked, so good luck finding it on the way up... Trip report.
Amazing climb, with Jason. Stashed the bike the day before, along with more off-road action in JJ's van than either of us liked... Early start the next morning- 4.26- but this was negated by the extra hour it took us to get to the trailhead. Not a terribly difficult approach, but the 3,000-plus ft. had one feeling it by the time the route was finally reached. Bit of a sketch snow traverse without crampons or an axe- glad that I didn't slip (very nearly did)! Super glad the glacier had slid- that would have made things much more stressful. After some exposed 3rd class, ended up getting off-route- this was evidenced by the various tat and rap' stations that we climbed past. This pitch was arguably the crux of the climb- .9+; however, fun climbing! Rest of the route stellar- never too difficult, but rarely easy. We took the direct variation, .9+, super fun! Wish I would have been able to retrieve the red Alien at the crux... Worried when I discovered that my bladder had opened, soaking my insulation layers and leaving me without water. Glad it didn't end up mattering... We topped out in the dark. Slow descent due to darkness- an extra hour of light would have made a huge difference... we ended up bivying on a sloping rise shortly before what turned out to be a short rap' or 2 before the mellow descent gully. As we couldn't make out much detail around us, we just bivied for 1.5 hours until it started getting light. Rest of the way down to the forest, not including JJ's hairball exposed choss-heather-dirtfest, mellow. Final 4,000 or so ft. knee-destroying descent to the 'road' intersection brutal... Finally back at bike 14.00-ish the day after we started the climb. What an adventure!
An excellent position with sustained climbing. The rock quality was good, but not outstanding. Took the crossover descent route. Expect route finding issues and four hours to the memorial.
Climbed it in two days (see my trip report)- Good climb, but a very long descent.
Dang, this was like the best single climb I've ever done. It was so enjoyable because it was so long and exposed but not ridiculously hard. AMAZING!!!
The easiest route up yet still requiring a 5.7 pitch to complete. NE butress next!!
A wonderful climb up a spectacular mountain!