... once the gain. Trying twice in one weekend, for a cumulative gain of 10,000', was not fun. Different parties on consecutive days. Completely worn out and felt sick afterwards.
A beautiful and fun route. Everybody loves Sloan Peak. It is the Michael J Fox of mountains.
Climbed the 5.7 Route on the west face as a day trip. Descended the south ledges route with just one rappel, but we had to make a 2nd rappel down the 20 degree icy snow at the bottom as we didn't have ice axes or traction. I found a nice 30 meter rope on the descent! Such an awesome day.
I tried this route on a lark, and it was mostly easy, with a bit of low 5th getting through two notches below the summit. Came down the corkscrew. This is definitely a high value-for-effort peak. Trip report.
Solo, via the SE face ramp. This late in the year, the small glacier had receded enough from the ramp beginning that the first 50 feet bordered on low angle class 5.
Awesome day with the Somers brothers commemorating 40th anniversary of Wally Somers disappearance. Meaningful climb with Oyvind, Steve and Dave. I won't forget it.
Intended to take the Corkscrew route. Got to the trailhead late one night, woke up and hit the trail at 5am. Still lots of snow on the approach, starting shortly after the first crossing of Cougar Creek. Put down a basecamp and continued on, hoping to catch the summit. Crossed the Sloan Glacier in slow-going soft snow and intermittent white-out conditions. Got to the transition to the 'heather' ledge from the glacier but stymied there. Hard to see where it was supposed to go, lots of snow and rocks poking out. Our attempts to make the transition revealed lots of holes and 'moats' around rocks. Also ran out of energy, turned back, crashed at camp. Decided not to follow around with it on the second day and hiked out.
Bedal basin approach. Short scramble up to corkscrew.
Came in from Bedal Basin. From talking with other climbers, this sounds like an easier route.
This route has a bit of everything to it, and makes for a very long and demanding day!
Went out this past Saturday with a buddy of mine. Left Seattle at 5am and got back just before midnight. Had great weather and the glacier was still in excellent shape with no crevasses blocking the direct route across. From the top we could see from Baker all the way down to Adams, and had great views of all the ranges in between!
August 2012 glaciers - 3. Great climb, camped on the saddle just before the glacier, checked out the west side then traversed around the glacier and did the corkscrew. Great views with clouds below us, warm weather and good snow.
Gimpilator and I did this climb in one long day. Left the trailhead at dark and returned to the truck at dark. Car to summit in 7.5 hours and summit to car in 6. Made it up to the high camp in under 4 hours at a good pace, but the Glacier slowed us down a lot. Glacier was really broken up so we took some time navigating around all the crevasses and thin bridges. The views were the best I have seen so save this one for good conditions and a clear day for the views. Amazing!!!
This peak has the best views I've ever seen and one of the most interesting routes to match. The glacier was really broken up and gave us a bit of trouble. We had to double back a couple times. I made a Trip Report and video.
Pretty pleasant day, with mostly clouds and some sun. Long day with lots of variety.
Up and down in a day. Great trip. Glacier was really broken up. Had to climb a 20 ft. 80 degree head wall to get up to the rock cliff. Good times.
What a climb, great mountain. Bears, raging rivers, lost in the bog, got out alive...barely. Story, pics and map at http://www.willhiteweb.com/washington_climbing/monte_cristo/sloan_peak_075.htm
Great day out. It rained on and off on the ascent but cleared up and stayed nice while we were on the glacier. On the way up, we didn't take the high traverse on the glacier and had to cross a couple snow bridges, including a very thin one over a large crevasse. Took a high traverse on the way back, which was very straightforward. Also, we were able to cross all the rivers without wading at this time. The trail traversing the summit block was gorgeous! Car to car in 11.5 hours.
Climbed with dory to the start of the technical section then went on solo, poor visibility and sketchy free soloing turned me around a few hundred feet from the top.
7:10 roundtrip including nearly 36 minutes on the summit.
Awesome route. Doable in a day but nice to bivy up near the entry point onto the glacier.