Wow - that's one of the toughest "easy" climbs I've ever done. At 5.7 A0, the rating suggests fairly straightforward climbing, but you really have to earn this one. The mix of trad, sport, and aid requires some well-thought-out strategy if you want to complete the route in reasonable time. Moving out of the mouth cave and onto the face was the hardest 5.7 climbing I've ever done. All technique went out the window and I had a death-grip on the holds.
All-in-all a spectacular climb that I can't wait to repeat!
Rising Expectations (Sept. 2007) Shirley led this as her first aid lead. Probably C1.
West Face ('gain in June 2007) this time with a 150 lbs pig for shits & giggles.
East Face (Apr. 2007) Rained all night prior. Drizzled all day. Then the wind picked up and started hosing us sideways. Bailed off after 1st pitch. Fun - a step up from West Face.
West Face (Mar. 2007) Rainy day (morning anyway) = aid climbing. Nice line for learning how to do it. P1 is mostly straightforward nutting. P2 & 3 bolt ladders can easily be run together to cave (some reachy bolts). P4 is another short bolt ladder.
Dolf's Dihedral (Mar. 2007) Direct 10a start avoids shit rock. Upper 5.8 crack is sweeeet though short.
Perpetual Motion (Mar. 2007) A decent 5.9 crack that pulls around some intimidating chockstones. Got up only to find the 3 anchor angles dangling from an ancient piece of tat.
Pioneer Route (Feb. 2003)
West Face Variation (first two pitches of the standard, route "13")
West Face (first pitch followed and later led, both times done as aid climbs)
West Face Variation (standard) to Bohn Street (Feb. 14, 2004)
West Face Variation "direct" to Bohn Street in two pitches (Apr. 17, 2004).
Pioneer Route (August 28, 2004). Took my little brother up this fun formation as the 3rd rock climb of his life (and 1st unbelayed rappel). Spinner bolt with tiny hole in the mouth cave has been replaced.
West Face Variation "direct" to Bohn Street in two pitches with variation (5.8) start on pitch 1. Shirley led the whole thing and we both thought the 5.8 variation start was kind of hard for the grade (March 6, 2005).
Amazing Jan. day. We were the first ones on the route. The bolt ladder was a fun new experience.
Lead the 2nd pitch and the third. There was three of us and it took a rediuclously long time, with the person seconding me on the aid pitch unable to finish the cleaning, rapped off and left gear and a headache on the ladder.
MONKEY FACE I WILL BE BACK.
Run, get to the Chopper.
I'm putting down an attempt as well because, damn it, it was a lot of work!!
Haydar and I got halfway up the bolt ladder only to discover a bolt missing. There was no way to reach the next bolt (over 6 feet above my head). So we rapped down and started scheming. Haydar ran back to the car for the tent poles while I fashioned a clip stick out of a biner, rubber band, and two shoelaces. I then jumared back up to the ledge, belayed Haydar up, and got back on the bolt ladder. Duct taping the biner to the tent pole, I extended the 20-foot pole, reached up, and clipped the next bolt. Shocked that it actually worked, I tied slings to extend my aiders and somehow made up up the ladder. Cleaning the pitch was difficult, but Haydar made it up into the cave as well. However we had both spent too long on the aid and we were tired and hungry. I basically chickened out on the 5.7 move out of the cave, took a short fall, and lost all desire to continue. We rapped off with a new respect for aid climbing and exposed 5.7 moves ...
We have enjoyed Monkey Face numerous times on both the Pioneer Route and the West Face Variation.
Great trip with a good friend. My first experience with aiders which was laughable but we made it. Looking forward to doing it again some day.
oh well, guess it's ok to put down attempts, right?...............
Saturday tried the West Face Variation but with 4 of us and some interesting rope snags, it took forever. We got up 2 pitches and then rapped off as we knew we wouldn't make it.
Went back Sunday and tried the Pioneer Route. Made it to Bohn Street and the wind picked up, some snow started and my testicles were nowhere to be found looking up at the aid pitch having never done any aiding before. So, I rapped down while 2 others went on. They made it to the Nose but the snow was blowing sideways by then and they just rapped off from there.
Another group had set up a Tyrolean traverse to the Springboard with some webbing and were going back and forth. Found out they were setting up a line to try to tightrope walk it. Watched one guy get one foot on it and then back off dozens of times before it looked like they figured it was too windy.
The first time I climbed this, I had only been climbing a handful of times. Needless to say, this was an exhilirating step up in difficulty and exposure. The second and 3rd times were much easier, though the moves at Panic Point never lose their thrill. We got stormed off once, with hard rain and lightning. Rapping out of the cave in a thunderstorm is really fun! The rain wicks down the ropes, and the wind spins you around, really, a fun time.
Some advice, it's easier to lead the aid pitch, than to follow on jumars, or the second should aid the pitch as well while cleaning. The overhang and traverse makes the top awkward with just jumars.