Scramble up top for lunch between routes. Great views of the entire valley.
Went out for a morning session while driving from Reno to Seattle. Climbed some of the must-dos and enjoyed the rock before it got too hot.
5 Gallon Buckets, Light on the Path, 9 Gallon Buckets. Sweet! Fell all over the place on Light on the Path (now rated a 10a, mind you) :-)
Five Gallon Buckets / The Outsiders / Light on the Path. Great routes. First route at Smith was Five Gallon Buckets and I thought it was pumpy. Then sort of got dialed in and it wasn't so bad.
My wife and I climbed at this wall (and the Dihedrals) on May 10th - we climbed Chicken McNuggets (10b), Vomit Launch (11b), Gumby (10b), Zion (5.9), Zebra Direct (11a), Pop goes the Nubbin (10a), John Galt Line (11b), Wedding Day (10b), Magic Light (11a), and Barbecue the Pope (10b). My favourite was Magic Line and least liked was BBQ the Pope.
Great place, it is like a outdoor climbing gym. Thanks Vandervorts!
Late June was not too hot this particular day...had our dog, so kept everything to single pitch....first pitch of Lion's Chair was wicked....Stacy and BJ
A great area when it's not crowded 5 gallon buckets and the 5.9 next to it (can't think of the name) are both fun easy climbs.
After an ugly flail on 9-gal buckets, this route was a pleasure.
October 1992: I still rave about the huecos that diminished in size the higher they got.
Fun and unique!
Great climb !
Amazing climb. Best I have done at Smith Rock
Lion's Jaw (5.8). First pitch only. Think I led it 3X and Shirley led it once. Over-rated IMHO. The pro is very good, the route has been cleaned up by the nonstop traffic but it's a mediocre trad .8....Seek pitch 2 of Pack Animal or pitch 2 of Crack of Infinity for better 5.8 fun.
Five Gallon Buckets (5.7-5.8). Why is there a constant line on this route?? It's really not that good. It's OK at best I think...The only time we were able to get on it w/o a wait (not worth any wait) was in winter of '04 when there was a really cold spell one Sunday morning.
Zebra-Zion. Zebra start. Hung on gear in places. Will go back and try to do it clean. Spectacular line though! Best multi-pitch trad line at Smith?
One of the first places I've climbed at Smith. Can remember doing Lions Jaw, Five Gallon Buckets (many times-a great warmup), Light on the Path and Gumby. Like pulling that last overhung move on Lions Jaw.
Climbed some single pitch sport and crack climbs. Must go back and try Zebra Zion, looks rad.
Lion's Jaw - 5.8 - Really nice fingercrack in left facing corner. Lots of cheater face holds make it easier than it would seam. Very good route with good pro.
Five Gallon Buckets - 5.8 - Unique climbing up huge huecos. You could bivy in some of them. Fun to climb, very easy for the grade.
The Outsiders - 5.9 - Start is easy with big huecos, then above that is clean, sustained 5.9 face. Nice route.
Light on the Path - 5.10A - Same as above, but a little harder.
Gumby - 5.10B - Ok climb at best, only one or two 5.10 moves, then low to mid fifth class huge huecos after that. Only 4 bolts in almost 100 feet. Not recommended.
Nine Gallon Buckets (1st pitch) - 5.9 - Fun easy climb up more massive huecos.