Birds in a Rut--swapped leads with my regular climbing partner, Josh Lagalo. Josh put up the money 5.7 gear pitch. Aside from a brief section of optional pro on pitch three, and the money of pitch four, all other pitches are bolted--including anchors. There are no rap anchors on top, but if you have ever climbed off the back of Koala you'll be fine. The route gets an R rating, but the climbing is casual.
White Cloud--Watts gives this climb two stars...ummm, yeah. Thin Air is awarded three stars, but this climb is solid, fun, and repeatable. If 5.7/5.8 choss, marginal run out pro, and circa bicentenial hangers at a hanging belay are your idea of quality climbing--go get her. This climb needs scrubbing and some retro bolting (I mean, come on, it's Smith Rock). But alas the approach is likely to leave it a treacherous obscurity.
I give this route a nigh vomit rating. Six moves of nice finger locks and laybacking does not warrant two stars...WTF Watts.
Round River Direct (2X) - very good route
Cave Route - very good route
Carla The Stripper - good route
Marsupial Traverse - fun easy route
Thin Air - very fun route (upper two pitches are not to be missed....10a rating is probably an overkill!)
Various routes on Koala rock. Perfect climbing weather!
Round River Direct - my favorite - very fun 2nd pitch!
Lovely three pitch climb up Koala Rock. Great positions and views.
Also did Thin Air.
Cool, fun route up Brogan Spire! We did an unintended variation that we'll call "Cave Route Direct". Instead of turning right just outside the cave and heading up the gully to the belay, we saw a bolt to the left and headed straight up towards the top. Rope drag was an issue but we had just enough rope to make it to the summit in two pitches. One short rappel onto the ledge to the south, and then a very cool double-rope rappel to the ground.
Round River Direct (April 4, 2004)
Very nice route. Second pitch with the direct finish gets your attention
until you get to the first hold. It was worth the wait for prior parties to clear the route.
Cave Route (March 27, 2004)
First climb at Smith this year. Windy and quite chilly morning, somehow did it in two pitches by following the bolts up to Brogan Spire. Rapped down single rope to the west onto a wide flat platform, followed by a double rope to the ground down the south wall, part of it was free rappel.
The Marsupial Traverse (October 18, 2003)
What an enjoyable climb this was! Everything from face climbing, ridge walking and jumping, long rappel, down climbing and all kinds of smooth, juggy, portable rock, each summit had its own distinct nature. Being my first multi-pitch climb at this scale enjoyed it immensely. No longer know how to thank rpc and Shirley.
Great climb. This was my first multi-pitch. We climbed the Direct Variation for the 3rd pitch. The route description posted here was most helpful, thanks Radek.
I had the privilege of helping Ryan Lawson put up some routes in the Marsupials. His energy and enthusiasm was amazing. I too tasted the thrill of the first ascent for the first time. Havn't climbed there since 1999, but I can just imagine how good it must be in the Marsupials now. Abandon the main walls of Smith Rock, hike for an extra 20-30 minutes, and enjoy longer climbs, and often higher quality.