Snickers, 5.8-5.11b

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
California, United States, North America
Activities:
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
170 Hits
71.06% Score
Log in
to vote
Page By:
Snickers, 5.8-5.11b
Created On: Apr 16, 2018
Last Edited On: Apr 26, 2018


Overview/Approach

Ridiculous Finish, 5.11a*
Dow climbing Ridiculous Finish, 5.11a*

The north face of the Snicker formation offers one of the best collection of 5.10/11 tall and shaded routes in the entire park.  This is a broad 100’ tall cliff nestled between the popular guided climbs on Little Rock Candy Mountain and fun roof routes the Big Hunk formation.  The north face of this formation offers up routes that are fully shaded for most if not all of the day.

On the moderate side, Norwegian Wood, 5.9*, and Funny Bone, 5.8*, are two outstanding trad leads.  Norwegian is the better of the two staying with the same dihedral for 100’ of varied climbing, thin to wide.  Humorous, 5.10b*, and Don’t Think Just Jump, 5.10a*, offer two decent mixed lines.  Don’t Think has the more technical crux of the two.  The Ridiculous Finish, 5.11a*, is a short well bolted 25’ finish near the top of the formation that can be accessed from any one of five of the other routes that are concentrated on this middle section of the wall.  It is a slightly overhanging face and the rock is rougher (chossier) on the fingers compared to the majority of the other routes.   There is a 90’ rap on a ledge below Ridiculous Finish.  There is a rap at the top of Ridiculous Finish that is challenging to reach from the top but is the quickest way down.  A 70m rope should get you all the way down from the top rap, no worries.  Norwegian Wood, Joyride and Way of Life have their own 90’ rap on the left side of the formation.

Park at the large paved trail head for the Echo Rock area.  Take a well marked trail northeast out of the parking lot around the east side of the broad Echo Rock south face.  At the Eff Eight split boulder turn right and hike through the slick rock col between Mounds and Snickers.  The north facing wall is on your right.  15 minutes from the car.  Most of the routes are centered below the marked topo photo showing the Ridiculous Finish route.

Route Descriptions, From Right to Left, Facing the North Wall

Norwegian Wood, 5.9*
Dow leading Norwegian Wood, 5.9*

Alpine Diversions- 100’-5.11b*/

Time in the Penitentiary- 90’-5.11a*/

Crime of the Century- 110’-5.11a**/

Knight Shift- 90’-5.10d**/

Don’t Think Just Jump- 90’-5.10a*/ More interesting movement via intermittent cracks and mini corners than its shared anchor neighbor Humorous.  They are both good climbs.  The crux is a side pull of sorts at about 25’ traversing up and left.  This route ties into Humorous at half height and finishes at the same shared rap below The Ridiculous Finish overhanging wall above.  Small gear.  Dow

Humorous- 90’-5.10b*/ A mostly bolted face climb but a good one with fun movement via mantles, side pulls, etc.  The crux is the lower portion with a 5th class middle to another fun varnished wall below the grade above and ends at the base of the Ridiculous Finish wall.  The rock is great. Bolts protect any cruxes well.  Dow 

The Ridiculous Finish- 25’-5.11a*/ A fully bolted (two) short overhanging face climb from the lower fixed rap to the top of the formation (another fixed rap).  Sharp, chert like edges will test your fingers as you make short dynos for relatively positive edges on a slight overhanging wall.  The arete out right gives you some help.  Not sure about the one star recommendation in Miramontes Guide, the rock is not good and it is a short route. The fixed rap atop the route is hanging.  Dow

Funny Bone- 110’-5.8*/ An enjoyable 5.8 lead on great rock.  Suppose the crux is the finish up the twin dihedrals:  either squeeze up the right side or climb the flaring fingers up the left side (what I recommend).  Not a sustained climb at the grade with several ledges and a 5th class section.  Dow

Joyride- 90’-5.11c**/ Sport Climb

Norwegian Wood- 90’-5.9*/ A better route than what many would consider 5.9 classic climbs at Jtree.  The kiddos line up at the nearby Touch N Go and ignore this one.  A pure crack right facing corner that finishes on a C4#4 straight in fist crack at the top.  It starts with fingers.  Therefore a bit of everything on this pitch.  You can place gear at will and can set up a top rope via Joyride just to the right.  Single rack to #4.  My favorite route on this wall.  Dow

Way of Life- 60’-5.11b**/ Sport Climb