Snowpatch Route, IV, 5.8

Rappel the Kraus-McCarthy route. I have done this two ways. Simul rapping on a single and simul rapping on doubles. I believe it to be quicker with a single which makes about eight raps. Doubles have a tendency to get caught on one of the raps, so much so, you will see cordellete (2009) placed around a block for purpose of retrieving ropes off that same block (I have done it!). The raps are all bomber and go quickly with a single rope. Then walk back to your bags and descend the rock and ice down to the Pigeon-Snowpatch col raps. Another 6 raps and a fun moat crossing land you on the glacier below, where you will want crampons for return to the Kain Hut area, but can get by without if you access the rubble to the left below Son of Snowpatch where you can down climb right of the trail towards the end or follow the trail to one final fixed rap. I prefer to take crampons and walk the ice down. But on the Snowpatch Route you can get by with no crampons for the approach, so not carrying them at all is worth the scree bash descent versus glacier descent.
Snowpatch Route, IV, 5.8, 19 Pitches, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, August, 2009

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Liba Kopeckova

Liba Kopeckova - Sep 14, 2009 11:37 am - Voted 10/10

amazing...

This looks so amazing to me... living in NM, no glaciers, and you get to do both glacier travel and rock climb...Fantastic!
I bought some super light weight crampons made out of alloy (by grivel) for access to routes like this (I have 2 more sets of more sturdy crampons - gear freak?). But did not test those enough yet....

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