Page Type: | Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon: | 45.71923°N / 11.15455°E |
County: | Veneto |
Activities: | Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing |
Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall |
Elevation: | 5413 ft / 1650 m |
Soglio Sandri - Menti 1650 m
The Fumante is an important subgroup of the larger group of Carega, Piccole Dolomiti (Little Dolomites) including several pinnacles and limestone spiers. The toponym Fumante, well describing the frequent presence of the mists that run between the various towers and spiers (Fumante means "smoking"), is actually an ancient toponym of German origin, Fum-Bant, meaning "rocky wall." It is limited to the NE by the Passo Campogrosso which separates it from the Sengio Alto chain.
Soglio Sandri - Menti is a fine tower of dolomia belonging to the Fumante Group and located at a short distance from the Rifugio Toni Giuriolo located right on the pass, at the border between the provinces of Vicenza to the East and Trento to the West. Both the easy and quick approach and the quality of the rock make Soglio Sandri-Menti a destination rather frequented, offering pleasant climbs running on the NNE wall, the side facing Passo di Campogrosso. Among these routes I would like to mention the route "Antonella".
The starting point to climb Soglio Sandri-Menti is quickly approachable from Passo di Campogrosso m. 1446, a col located in the Little Dolomites, connecting the Vallarsa Valley (Trento province) and the Agno Valley (Vicenza province). The col is accessible by car only coming from the Vicenza side, passing through the small town of Recoaro Terme; in fact cars are not allowed on the road coming from Pian delle Fugazze (Trento side).
This wide pass separates the Carega group from the Sengio Alto chain. On the Vicenza side is located the refuge Toni Giuriolo, an excellent starting point to hike and climb in this Sector of the Piccole Dolomiti group.
Access to Campogrosso
- From A4 Motorway exit Montecchio Maggiore and follow the road to Valdagno, Recoaro and Passo di Campogrosso
Via Antonella description
Difficulty: IV, IV+ and V (UIAA scale)
Length: 120 m.
Equipment: bolts
Pitches: 5
Exposure: NNE
An advisable climb, mostly on excellent rock, on the NNE face of Soglio Sandri-Menti, near Passo di Campogrosso. The belays and the pitches are equipped with bolts.
Access to Soglio Sandri - Menti from Passo di Campogrosso
From Passo di Campogrosso take to the left the good path heading to the Guglie del Fumante (signpost 7 and E5) and keep it, reaching the fork on Sella del Rotolon. Take the path n. 6 crossing meadows and war-trenches and getting to Piazzale SUCAI, an amphitheater to the East of Guglie del Fumante. Before reaching the base of the Guglia GEI to the right, leave the path by bending to the left (cairns). Cross on stony ground, then descend on unstable ground in the amphitheater. Cross the landslide getting the Soglio Sandri-Menti, the last spire on the left. The start of the climb is below the vertical of the top and immediately to the left of a grassy gully, marked with a letter "A". 30 minutes from Campogrosso.
L1 - Climb the first few meters on dirty rock up to a terrace. Continue directly on slabs rich in holds, then on a small crack. Exiti to the stop on a ledge, IV, IV+, V, 30 m
L2 - Up directly on fine slabs until you stop at the base of a big crack, iv, IV+, 20 m.
L3 - Traverse left some meters and climb the big crack. Stop at the end of the crack, IV+, 15 m
L4 - Up directly on steep walls and with more scarce holds to a terrace, V, 25 m
L5 - Climb the overhang above the stop. Eventually it's possible to avoid it on the right and reach the terrace above. To the left climb a slab, then a chimney to the right getting the stop at the top IV, IV +, V- the overhang, 30 m
Descent - With 3 abseils directly along the route (needing 2x60 mt ropes). Be careful not to move stones. Once at the bottom, reverse the same itinerary taken during the approach.
No permits required, no fees.
The best seasons to climb and hike goes from May to October-November
- Rifugio Toni Giuriolo m. 1456 - Passo Campogrosso m. 1456 - Phone +39044575030
- Rifugio Alla Guardia - Phone +39044575257
"Piccole Dolomiti e dintorni - Arrampicate scelte" Guido Casarotto - An updated and complete selection of the best climbing routes in Little Dolomites, Ed. Cierre 2015
“Piccole Dolomiti – Pasubio” Gianni Pieropan - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI
“Arrampicate nelle Piccole Dolomiti” Guido Casarotto
Pasubio-Carega 1:25.000