Page Type
Wyoming, United States, North America
Route Type:
Rock -Classic Crack
Time Required:
Half a day

Route Quality: 41 Votes

8077 Hits
75.81% Score
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Created On: Mar 30, 2001
Last Edited On: Mar 30, 2001


From the bottom of the Standard South Face Rappel Route,walk to the right (east) across the South Face Ramp, around the corner, to the large and lovely East Bench. Soler is the left-most crack (right facing corner)

Route Description

This is a Classic and Favorite Route on the Tower. It is two beautiful pitches of fingers and hands, with a bolt belay in the middle. Ironically, it was the 1st aid climb on the Tower, done by Tony Soler in 1951. Appropriately, it was also the 1st aid route to be free climbed. This was done in 1959 by Colorado's Layton Kor with Wyoming's own Ray Jaquot. Today it is a Tower Favorite and a 5-Star Classic on a 3-Star Scale !!!

Pitch 1. (155ft, 5.9) From the East Bench, climb/scramble up to the start of the corner proper. A #3 Friend protects the move into the crack system.Climb up on sustained, yet secure jams or laybacks. A hanging belay from big bolts awaits you at rope's end. If a crux exists it might be 2/3 of the way up, moving around a small bulge. This crack will accept protection every 3 feet. It is a long pitch, so be sure to take 'nuff stuff!!

Pitch 2.(100ft, 5.9) Jam out of the hanging belay and head for the top. More finger and hand jams lead you skyward. This pitch is shorter but, a little more difficult than the first. Belay on a large ledge, setting your own anchors or reaching over and clipping into the bolts from Hollywood & Vine, on your left.

Finish. Scramble to the Meadows and take the Standard 3rd Class Thrash to the Summit.

You can rappel the El Cracko route back to the East Bench

Essential Gear

Standard rack, with as many finger and hand sized pieces as you can beg, borrow and carry.

Miscellaneous Info

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