RayMondo - Jan 19, 2010 11:55 am - Voted 10/10
Just PeachyI've never climbed rock requiring so much friction technique. Mostly Welsh limestone with pleny of edges and cracks, or the razor sharp Gabro of Isle of Arran. For me, this would be a leap of faith!
Marcsoltan - Jan 19, 2010 12:39 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Just PeachyActually, this route doesn't require much friction technique. It has mostly sharp little edges. Thank God for that because I hate friction climbs.
RayMondo - Jan 19, 2010 3:19 pm - Voted 10/10
EdgesI opened the picture to full view. I now see the little edges - two of them. The ones you are holding onto. The rest look inverted. Modesty obviously got you up there.
Marcsoltan - Jan 19, 2010 3:27 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: EdgesNot me; this is an Australian climber I met in Joshua Tree. I did this climb ten years ago, not recently. It's really not all that hard, just a little runout. My buddy, Herb Laeger did the first ascent of this route and he has always been in the habit of going further than most climbers before sinking in another bolt.
RayMondo - Jan 19, 2010 3:37 pm - Voted 10/10
RunoutI noticed the potential for the pendule on the second from top length. A bit of a skin scraper peeling down that.
I once had the potential of a real bad pendule in N. Wales on a route called Pinnacle Wall. The centre guy knocked off the runner in a 70ft footledge, so I had to follow unprotected - with a square corner for a stopping device! Never have I come so close to being the Coyote in Road Runner.
rpc - Jan 19, 2010 3:43 pm - Voted 10/10
man, oh manyour series on this route Marc made me check southwest.com twice already :)
(no go though)
Marcsoltan - Jan 19, 2010 5:41 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: man, oh manIt's been raining a lot here lately. The forecast is for more rain even into next week. They're talking about El Nino year, meaning a lot of rain. It may be a good idea to wait till March, or so. My latest 3 or 4 submissions are from Oct 09. I finally got around writing about them.
graham - Jan 26, 2010 11:53 am - Hasn't voted
Great photo & betaI forgot how far right the 4th bolt was. This photo really give a great perspective. Thanks for sharing!
Marcsoltan - Jan 26, 2010 12:17 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great photo & betaGlad you like it Graham. Yes, the 4th bolt is a bit too far to the right, but you can skip the 4th bolt and go straight to the 5th which is still on the right edge of the rust lane. Never done it like that and sure like to know the rating.
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