Song Of The Earth

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock Route
Time Required:
Less than two hours

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Created On: Jan 11, 2004
Last Edited On: Jan 11, 2004


To access the intial approach to Penstemon Dome, follow Coourtright Rd. into the Courtright Reservoir area. At the three-way road split near the reservoir, take the right fork. This narrow paved "road" crosses over a small spillway then over the reservoir dam barrier. The road skirts high above the Helms Canyon and curves right. The road then descends and then bends left. Continue till roads end (landmarked by a solar outhouse). Park here. Start walking east 50 yards. There, one will pick up a faint trail continuing east. The trail will contour down and around the back side of a dome (Punk Dome), descending into the forest. The trail will come upon a small creek (diffcult to cross in late spring). Cross here and ascend the hillside to the east, bearing toward an obvious dome (Penstemon Dome). There is no use trail on this side. Once near the base of the dome, locate a low angle slab (bolted) that heads toward steeper rock (use of the Sequoia Kings Canyon guide at this point is helpful). Find a large crack, just 50 feet left of the slab. This is the initial start to access 'Song Of The Earth' (1 pitch above).

Route Description

Pitch 1:
Start by ascending the large crack (5.8, gear to 2.5"....#3 Camelots helpful). Ascend it for 75' to a small sloping ledge, located left of the crack. Cross over from the crack to the ledge while underclinging a small roof to circumnavigate the ledge. Once around the ledge, head up and right to an obvious alcove. This alcove is located directly below a large slab. At the end of the alcove and directly above is a bolted line, 30 feet left of a left facing corner (the left facing corner is 'Captain America', also 5.10a). This bolted line is 'Song Of The Earth'.

Pitch #2:
This route is a full 55 meters, so bring an extra rope for the rappel. The best part about this route is that it is sustained in nature. No rest for the wicked or faint of heart! Follow up on thin, friction slab past a total of 8 bolts to a chained 3-bolt belay (hanging). One can continue up from here to ascend the remaining section of the dome and on to the summit (2 bolts, pro to 1".....100 feet). Most simply climb the route and rappel. One of the cleanest, most sustained lines at Courtright. 5 stars!!

Essential Gear

+ (2) 60 meter ropes
+ Pro to 3", (large cams helpful)
+ (8) Quickdraws
+ Slings

Miscellaneous Info

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