South arete - Spigolo Sud (Via Longo)

Page Type
Lombardy, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Rock climb along an edge
Time Required:
Most of a day

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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South arete - Spigolo Sud (Via Longo)
Created On: Mar 19, 2005
Last Edited On: Mar 23, 2005


As the normal route from south side, route starts from Presolana Pass. From the car parking just in front to a little wood house (a sport tools store) 200-300 meters before the Presolana pass,coming from Clusone (1280 mt). You have to follow the way on the left. After 100-200 meters, leave the way following the path entering in the forest. In 30-40 min, you will reach Refuge Malga Cassinelli (1522 mt). From here the path turns on the right , in direction of the south wall (follow arrows for Pagani cave), walk up in the direction of a little chapel and City of Clusone bivouac (2050 mt). When you can see the edge up you, in front of you, you have to leave the trail and go up.


Route Description

Different variation exist, but the best one is the direct route. The "direttissima" is called "Spigolando" but is more difficult (6a-6b). The climbing starts at the beginning of the edge where a red sign is on the rock. Follow a first part in a steep grass then turn right to reach the rocks of the edge. Go on crossing directely a rock wall. So you reach the famous "traversata". Turn right and climb a steep chimney. You have finished the classical route (120 mt) and you can reach the bottom rapping down. It is preferable to continue along the arete and arrive with rock of bad quality to the top (other 80 mt).
Then you have to turn right and follow the trail with red dot on the rocks to reach the middle of the canalone (couloir) Bendotti and go down to reach the bottom of the rock wall (II UIAA).

Essential Gear

2x60 mt rope. If you want reach the top of Presolana and go down Canalone Bendotti you need some hill walking boots. For the climbing rock-climbing boots are preferable. 4/5 Carabiner with sleeve. 10/12 express sets. 3/4 medium Frictional anchors (Friends), some chocks. No hammer and no nails needed. Helmet. the route is equiped very well.

In the south side of the Pizzo della Presolana a lot of routes have been well equiped:


Miscellaneous Info

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