Terrific easy rock route, but ridiculous number of people climbing; and it was Wednesday. The approach is almost totally free of snow but the mosquitoes in the morning are extremely hungry.
climbed the SW couloir, was a fun route, wasnt in the greatest condition.
Great weather and great partners. High snow year and early season, no chockstone! Used pickets, stoppers and a couple cams.
Nice fun and easy climb. Snow spit at the start, but weather held on enough for enjoyable afternoon.
Route Climbed: SW Rib. Date Climbed: 9/9/07
An OK route. As Martin mentions, ledgy with good climbing consisting of "short bursts" here and there. Also, Martin's suggestion of linking works well - did it in about 5 pitches (could've cut down one more I think). Nice day & hence 2 parties ahead of us (& more on descent).
Route Climbed: DEB. Date Climbed: 9/30/06
Shirley & I wanted to do LC but couldn't quite crawl out of sleeping bags pre-dawn (again). Nice line. Did it at about 5.9 A0 (yarded bolt ladders). Nice cracks on lower 4 pitches. Nice exposure & OK climbing on upper part (probably nicer if you free the bolt ladders). As always, transitioning from aid to free mid-pitch is a bitch. Cold when in shade. I liked East Face of Lex and even East FAce of Minuteman better than this one.
Route Climbed: South Arete. Date Climbed: 10/12/02
My wife, our friend J. and I did the climb together. Perfect weather on this sunny side of the mountain. Very easy rock - the only interesting part was at the very beginning and even that was not harder than 5.5. Ran into only one more climber (soloing) from Methow. Saw a party rapping off the Liberty Bell.
Probably the most fun multi-pitch rock route I've done. My OSAT rock-jock buddies took me up this, and let me lead the slab crossing on the descent.
My first time in the Eastern Cascades and first time alpine rock climbing. Will be back for more!
My son and I returned this year to complete the Fall attempt last year. We had excellent weather. No one else climbing the South Arete this day.
what a sweet climb!
Fun route, not too hard but it was perfect for my technical alpine climb.
A great climb in Washington Pass. Needed the two #4 Camalots. Would make the direct start next time.
Hoping to get in a Fall climb, but only started the route. Snow, some ice made us back off. Rock was very cold and our hands got numb quickly. Hope to do the whole route in better weather. There was no one else around. Beautiful place.
excellent 360 degree views at the top, mountain goats fought over my urine
My first climb in the North Cascades! Great sticky rock, fun moves (especially the traverse on the whaleback), and gorgeous scenery added up to a great day. We got to the summit just before it started sprinkling, but then dried up 'til just before we got back to our cars. 5-star climb!
Very fun route. A bit cold - climbed through the clouds with wet snow falling and then hail, but it gave the experience a nice mountain ambiance. Recommend it!
Warm and beautiful weather. Bring a couple big cams for the offwidths. Start just to the left of the two-topped Larch.
Climbed with Gunner below. Second time on this route this year. Made for great outing (except for post holing) with short approach and fun route.
Had the entire route to ourselves.
We desperately needed snowshoes, as we punched through hip deep most of the way to the route. Once there, the route was quite nice. Crampons were necessary. There was plenty of snow in the couloir, but is is melting fast. Be careful of the cornice once you exit the couloir and begin the scramble. I loved this climb.
Great climb! We left Blue Lake Trailhead 8:00AM, summit by noon. Warm and sunny, with fantastic views. Only one other group ahead of us, so no line ups in the Couloir. Snow was soft and deep enough for us to use snowshoes on the approach. Couloir had snow almost to the summit , but melting fast. Some of us used crampons in the Couloir, optional on this day. Thanks to Summitpost for good beta on this route.
I loved this climb. Approached via the hairpin turn parking area. Saw lots of goats that tried to kick rocks down on us! Glissaded back down almost all the way to the car.