Mishell and I climbed the South Arete route with 8 other parties that day. The first pitch was great, a fun lead. The second pitch had some fun climbing around a chockstone. The rest of the route is class 2 -4 and was not enjoyble at all. The route is just loaded with vegetation everywhere. The descent was even worse. Downclimbing through all of this was awful. Should have rapped the Couloir instead. Probably the worst route in the Liberty Group.
After climbing the SW snow couloir a couple months ago vowed to return for the rock climbing. Up here for the weekend and picked this rte as the Beckey guide suggested it as a great intro to this area's rock. Of course he is right and great rock, area, and intro to fantastic place to play.
Fred Spicker and I climbed the Southwest Couloir in perfect conditions, under clear blue skies. The route had lots of consolidated snow in it, and steps kicked all the way up. Could be done with trekking poles and no crampons if needed. Was a nice easy 45 to 50 degree snow climb. We stayed on the summit for about 30 minutes, admiring the amazing views. On the way down, we encountered a group of 7 beginners putting in a running belay. We were bored, so we went over and climbed Blue Lake Peak.
Fun and easy climb, got over too quickly
Should have brought rock gear to climb the s arete
The ski down sucked, breakable crust that provided more than enough face plants
An awesome sun drenched day. Climbing with Tom breit we got an early start and on the summit by around noon. Saw only one other party of 2 ahead of us. Conditions lower down were just steep, crusty, avalanche consolidation. Higher up in the crux slot there was more of a melt-freeze cycle going on and a bit harder ice. Views on top were hard to beat.
Climbed with Stephen Durham and Mark Ryman. Fun climbing, great views.
Climbed with peter in an easy half-day, even after he forgot the pack on pitch 1 and had to retrieve it. Good quality rock in a wonderful setting.
A short 3 hour approach followed by an incredible 700 ft of solid 40-50 degree snow with crampons and ice axe. Best climb of year by far. The final 20 feet was a 4th class boulder hop at the edge of a 20ft thick cornice. Views?! Wow. What a day. With Matt Wacker.