South - East (normal route)

South - East (normal route)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.95070°N / 6.42820°E
Additional Information Route Type: Basis Glacier Climb and Rocky Part
Additional Information Time Required: One to two days
Additional Information Difficulty: PD
Sign the Climber's Log


You can drive up to Pré de Mme Carle at the end of the valley and park your car. From there, at 1840m, just follow the signs to the Réfuge du Glacier Blanc.

Route Description

From Pré de Mme Carle, it's a 2 hour walk to the Refuge du Glacier Blanc at 2542 m where you can spend the night.

The next day, from the Refuge du Glacier Blanc, follow the trail in the direction of the Jean Gauthier - glacier. You ascend the glacier first E and afterwards N towards the Col du Monêtier. Finally it's a scramble to get at the Col at 3339m. Descend a little from the Col du Monêtier and turn left and walk on the Monêtier - glacier with the rocks of Pic Tuckett on your left. You'll arrive the base of couloir towards Col Tuckett (3529m).
From there you can get up to Col Tuckett by climbing the snowy couloir (II+/III) or the rocks on the left. Watch out for the rocks ! Many of them or loose and rockfall is quite common, especially with climbers above you.
From the Col, climb the south ridge of the right flank (25m, III). Follow the ridge which becomes easier. When you arrive at some couloirs follow the way up to the right until you reach the summit at 3664 m.

When descending, you need a rappel to get safely down the Col Tuckett.

It's takes 4 hours to get to the summit and 2 to 3 hours to get back down to the Refuge du Glacier Blanc.

Essential Gear

Crampons, ice axe, helmet, rope, rockclimbing gear.

Miscellaneous Info

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