South-East Ridge (normal route)

Page Type
Route
Location:
Haute-Savoie/Aosta (Mont Blanc), France/Italy, Europe
Route Type:
mixed
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
Mixed. II PD, UIAA I-II (YDS 5.3), 35º; snow couloir variant up to 45º

Route Quality: 4 Votes

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Page By:
Ari
South-East Ridge (normal route)
Created On: Jan 31, 2002
Last Edited On: Apr 5, 2005

Approach


Starting point is Torino Hut at Col du Géant (3375m).

Route Description


Very popular ridge route and most often used descent. Ridge length about 600m with 250 meters ascent. 3-4h from the Hut.
All in all non-trivial for a normal route.
FA party: J.Blackhouse, T.Carson, D.Freshfield, C.Tucker, D.Balleys & M.Payot 22.7.1867 in descent.

Starting from Torino Hut (3375m) cross the Col des Flambeaux and go around the base of Aiguille de Toule. From there there are two possibilities:
a) follow the glacier on the east side of Tour Ronde to the Col d'Entrèves (3527m, 1,5h from the hut). Follow the snowy South-East ridge, at first on the right side, then turn a series of gendarmes on the left. Reach a snow saddle of Col Freshfield at 3625m.
b) Before reaching the Col d'Entrèves head right to relatively steep (max.45 degrees?) snow couloir. Pass the bersgschrund and climb the couloir directly up to Col Freshfield .

From Col Freshfield climb on a moderate rock (II) with some airy sections on the granite crest. This is followed by a snowy slope that leads on the foot of final rocks. Scramble them to achieve to summit.

In descent 2-3h from summit to Col du Géant. It is possible to rappel the steep rocks down to Col Freshfield.

Essential Gear


ice axe, crampons

References


1) Griffin Lindsay: Mont Blanc Massif, vol I. Alpine Club 1996. ISBN: 0-900523-57-3. pp 130 #267.
2) Eberlein Hartmunt: Mont-Blanc-Gruppe - Gebietsführer für Bergsteiger und Klettere. Bergverlag Rodulf Rother, 2000. ISBN: 3-7633-2414-3. pp179 #454 (ascent), pp181 #459 (descent).
3) La Tour Ronde Normalweg - Route description of couloir variant in German at der Alpenführer.
4) Gaston Rebuffat: The Mont Blanc Massif : The 100 Finest Routes. The Mountaineers Books, 1996. ISBN: 0898864771. #11.
5) Laroche Jean-Louis & Lelong Florence: Die Gipfel des Montblanc - die schönsten Routen in allen Schwierigkeiten. BLV Verlaggesellschaft mbH, 1999. ISBN: 3-405-15693-9. #7

Miscellaneous Info


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South-East Ridge (normal route)

Route
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Geography

Nearby Routes Interactive Map Routes in France / Italy

Parents

Tour RondeRoutes