South Face-5.7 II

Page Type
Route
Location:
Utah, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
3
Grade:
II

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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South Face-5.7 II
Created On: Feb 28, 2006
Last Edited On: Apr 25, 2012

Overview

Johnny, on one of his first...

 

 

Most of the known climbs are on the south side of the tower. This route may be one of the easiest climbs in this region that tops out on a desert tower top.  Great introduction to sandstone climbing and desert climbing. This route can be done with the nearby South Face Direct routes in part of a day.

Relatively easy 3 pitch climb ascends crack, then face moves to the notch. Out onto the north side and back to the east for a mantle move to the summit.  The views are spectacular and this route offers the mortal climber a chance to experience a desert tower summit.

Pitch 1:  Start just up from the Petroglyphs. Easy Rock to a chimney, then face climb right and up to a ledge (5.6)

Pitch 2:  From the ledge, climb up easier rock (5.4) to the notch just below the summit

Pitch 3:  From the notch, Traverse around the north side and out onto the east area (corkscrew) just below the summit. A 5.7 mantle move puts you on top.

Descent:  Rap from the anchors under the summit (same, south side)

Approach

Krishna scoping out the base...

 

 

(Same as general approach)

Hiking Approach

  • You could park as close as 1.2 miles or as far as 4.6 miles away. The nearest tower to the highway is North Six-Shooter. Ascend the east or south side of the shale ridden base of the South Six-Shooter Peak and make your way up to the south side of the formation. Once atop the base, it's obvious where to head for. Start just above a petroglyph.

Gear

  • Typical desert rack (minus any aid equipment). Cams are handy and usually just 1 rope
  • Double length slings for frequent rope drag on the meandering near the top







  • South Face-5.7 II

    Route
    6 Images 4 Climber's Log Entries 2 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

    Geography

    Routes in Utah

    Parents

    South Six-Shooter PeakRoutes