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10269 Hits
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80.49% Score
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12 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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38.12080°N / 109.6498°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.7 (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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3 |
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Grade:
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II |
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Overview
Most of the known climbs are on the south side of the tower. This route may be one of the easiest climbs in this region that tops out on a desert tower top. Great introduction to sandstone climbing and desert climbing. This route can be done with the nearby South Face Direct routes in part of a day.
Relatively easy 3 pitch climb ascends crack, then face moves to the notch. Out onto the north side and back to the east for a mantle move to the summit. The views are spectacular and this route offers the mortal climber a chance to experience a desert tower summit.
Pitch 1: Start just up from the Petroglyphs. Easy Rock to a chimney, then face climb right and up to a ledge (5.6)
Pitch 2: From the ledge, climb up easier rock (5.4) to the notch just below the summit
Pitch 3: From the notch, Traverse around the north side and out onto the east area (corkscrew) just below the summit. A 5.7 mantle move puts you on top.
Descent: Rap from the anchors under the summit (same, south side)
Approach
(Same as general approach)
Hiking Approach
- You could park as close as 1.2 miles or as far as 4.6 miles away. The nearest tower to the highway is North Six-Shooter. Ascend the east or south side of the shale ridden base of the South Six-Shooter Peak and make your way up to the south side of the formation. Once atop the base, it's obvious where to head for. Start just above a petroglyph.