For 50 North American classic route soloist, this is a decent and secure on sight solo objective without much route difficulty or troubled terrain. I had the pleasure of climbing it roped with Joanne Urioste and her son Danny. Joanne , in her 60' s and fresh off a knee operation, kicked ass as I continue to expect from her. Met Lynn Hill at the Outdoor Retail Show the very next day. These two represent the Queens of Rock to say the least. Soloed the approach pitches up to the chimney. Easy climbing via several pitches that start to circumvent the southeast corner. I had climbed the southwest corner of Saber several days earlier and both routes are withing talking distance, not even shouting. There is a huge jump up from this route to the southwest corner of Saber though, for budding trad leaders. After turning the corner, the climbing becomes more interesting and fun up the southeast face. The holds near the summit ridge are interesting incuts. The last pitch I ran a full and exact 200' to the summit. The descent is all modern bolted as of 2018 and very clean. Double ropes needed, 6 fast and clean raps right back to your bags. Outstanding day with two of my dearest friends. The sky pond area is cool, but as most of CO, quite crowded, even mid week. No climbers on our day only because of the threat of rain, otherwise expect full on traffic.
Did this twice before the new rappel line was put in. Coming down the old way was terrible.
My longest most committing route for me to date!
One of the best days ever.
Had the route to ourselves on a beautiful day. Did it in 7 pitches and 6 raps. Knocked off a scary block on rap 2. Would have killed us.
Not Crowded at all either.
We debated before jumping on the wall due to the cold wind that day. Two parties of 2 were already on the wall and we finally decided to go for it at 9:30am when we felt the warm sun on our skin. 6 pitches to the top that we reached at 2:30pm. Our party of 3 passed the two other parties on the wall. Rudy led all pitches. The rappel was a little scary due to the loose rocks.
With Dan. Climbed the crux pitches and did the 5.9 variation to the crux - didn't think it was that bad at all. Double ropes made the rappels nicer although we got a little off route and rappelled the east gully for a bit before getting back to the bolts.
filled the first couple of chimney pitches making it...interesting and slow...had to bail....have to save it for another time.
Climbed the South Face Route in July 1983. My first alpine route and first trip to Rocky Mountain National Park for climbing. Gotta get back and do this one again!