South face (Normale route)

Page Type
Piemonte, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Rock climb
Time Required:
One to two days

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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South face (Normale route)
Created On: Sep 28, 2004
Last Edited On: Sep 28, 2004


From Pian del Re you have to go to Q. Sella Hut (2 - 2h15'). The path to Q. Sella Hut is easy and nice; no problem to reach it, a lot of informations along the path. You sleep at Q. Sella Hut and the second day you can start early in the morning for reach the Monviso.

Route Description

From the Q. Sella Hut follow the path to south along the Lago Grande di Viso (Viso big lake), turn on the right side (W) to follow the path to colle delle Sagnette, there are two different possibilities to reach it: you can go up along the couloir (dangerous because the falling rocks) or follow the narrow with exposition path on the right (chains in the most dangerous steps). From the Colle delle Sagnette interesting sight on the south face and on the route you’ll follow. Follow the traces across broken rocks in the direction of a moraine, pass this hill on the right and go on till Bivacco Andreotti (3225). Attention: along all the route from Bivacco Andreotti to the top of the mountain is very useful to follow the yellow arrows. There are also very useful ring nails along the whole route to secure oneself. From here, along the south face, pass the little Sella Glacier, at the end of this, turn on the left and begin climbing (the most dangerous step of the whole ascension because the falling rocks!). Turn on the right across easy stony steps and then climb up for 80-100 metres. Here you are in a very certain place to stay, called “sala da pranzo” (Dining room). From here the climbing is more difficult, first you have to climb a narrow ridge, then across easy stony steps and passages of II, till the joining together of the east ridge and the south ridge. In case of snow you have to pay attention, the steep face is very sliding. From here only a few easy steps to the top.

Essential Gear

Helmet, rope, some spring-clip; crampons and axe are necessary at the beggining and at the end of summer

Miscellaneous Info

South face (Normale route)

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